Anne-Charlotte PasseraTravel to Ho Chi Minh City and experience the modern life, Vietnamese style.
My 76-year-old mom and I went to Ho Chi Minh City as part of our final stop of our trip to Vietnam.
Ho Chi Minh City is a modern metropolis, one similar to one you would find in North America.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Ho Chi Minh City is the most populated city in Vietnam with over 9 million souls and that doesn’t include the number of immigrants that come to settle there every year according to one of our guides.
A look at the past
Once known as Saigon until 1975 or 1976, it changed its name to Ho Chi Minh City after the end of the American War (Vietnam War). Named after Ho Chi Minh, a man considered as the founding father of the communist party and regarded as one of the most famous and influential politicians of the 20th century. Despite the name changed, the locals still refer to their city as Saigon on unofficial matters.
It was the capital of the French protectorate of Cochinchina (1862–1954) and of South Vietnam (1954–75). The city lies along the Saigon River (Song Sai Gon) to the north of the Mekong River delta, about 50 miles (80 km) from the South China Sea.
In 1859 the town was captured by the French, and in 1862 it was ceded to France by the Vietnamese emperor Tu Duc. As the capital of Cochinchina, Saigon was transformed into a major port city and a metropolitan centre of beautiful villas, imposing public buildings, and well-paved, tree-lined boulevards. Railway lines running north and south of the city were constructed, and Saigon became the principal collecting point for the export of rice grown in the Mekong River delta. (Source Wikipedia)
During the American war, Saigon was used as the headquarters of the U.S. military. Unfortunately, parts of the city were destroyed by the war in 1968.
Architecture
Just like the rest of Vietnam, Saigon was influenced by the French during the colonisation of Vietnam in the 19th century. This is notable with the post office, Notre-Dame cathedral, City Hall and the Opera house.
HOW TO GET THERE AND AROUND
The fastest way to get to Ho Chi Minh City is by air.
We flew in from Da Nang for $50CAD per person. The price included one checked luggage and the flight was only 1h30 long! You can use 12GOASIA to book internal flights or check what routes are best to get from point A to point B throughout Asia. It’s a great site to use to prepare your trip in Vietnam.
To travel to Ho Chi Minh City from the airport you can grab a taxi. The cost of a one-way trip to District 1, pending on circulation, is between 170 000VND to 220 000VND.
By train
Another way to travel to Ho Chi Minh City is by train. The journey from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is about 35 hours, with multiple stops along the way.
Once again, you can use 12GOASIA to book your train tickets. During your train journey, you could stop in places such as Ninh Binh, Hué, and Da Nang to name a few.
Getting Around
Since we were staying in District 1, where all the major sites are, we just walked.
However, you can easily use GRAB, the Asian version of UBER, to get around the city. If you are traveling by yourself, you should try the GRAB motorbike!
Buses do exist, but the city is so big that if you are only there for a day or two, they are not worth testing out.
WHERE TO SLEEP IN HO CHI MINH CITY
District 1 is where all the major tourist attractions are. It’s also where you’ll find high end boutiques and luxury hotels. If that’s your type of thing and within your budget, this is where you should stay. That being said, I found that hotel cost in Ho Chi Minh City was a lot higher than in any other place visited throughout Vietnam.
However, if you want to stay in District 1 but more in an off beaten way, check out the Lief Mojo Hotel. The Lief Mojo is located in Japan Town (Little Tokyo) in District 1. Staying in that area will feel like you are traveling yet to another country.
We loved our stay in this hotel. The interior is splashed with pastel colours and convenient amenities. The rooms are spacious and the breakfast, despite being a tad bit small, is good. The staff is super friendly and accommodating. Don’t hesitate to communicate with them if you need help getting around the city or have questions.
Also, a convenience store is located nearby which is perfect if you want to make your own happy hour for cheap. Chillax on their outdoor patio and watch the ladies from the massage parlour across the street attract their next prey.
I wouldn’t recommend staying there with kids as it can get noisy and space can feel tight with kids. If you are traveling with an older person like my mom, this hotel has an elevator and is walking distance to all major sites (30 minutes give or take).
WHERE WE ATE
We didn’t explore the food scene much in Ho Chi Minh City. Our travel to Ho Chi Minh City was at the end of our trip through Vietnam and we were by then in much need for some hamburgers and French fries.
Speaking of hamburgers, we shamelessly ate at McDonald’s next to the old Post Office for lunch. Please don’t judge. It was conveniently right there in front of us. Since we needed to get out of the heat, rest our feet and use free Wi-fi to figure out our next destination, that’s where we stopped. Also, it sits on the corner of a bookstore pedestrian street, similar to one we encountered in Hanoi.
Ho Chi Minh City is so big that when you travel there, there will be plenty of food options to pick from. Here are some of the ones we tasted without going out of our way.
Tomidaya Ramen
Nonetheless, since we were staying in Japan Town, we did try some ramen specialties at Tomidaya. It’s probably the smallest restaurant where I ever ate at, but my ramens were delicious. The service is also super-fast and the pricing decent.
L’Usine
Another place worth mentioning is L’Usine located right outside of Japan Town, on the corner of Le Thanh Ton and Thai Van Lung. They serve western breakfast with a twist all day long in a very chilled setting.
Ben Thanh Market
Food stalls line the city’s streets around Ben Thanh Market. It’s the perfect place to taste some street food on the go and grab some last-minute souvenirs.
Where to drink
Granted my mom and I did not do any ‘official’ drinking while in Ho Chi Minh City, here are two place worth mentioning.
The apartment building
Located on the popular avenue Nguyen Hue, not far from City Hall, this old apartment building has been turned into cafes, bars, boutiques and coworking spaces.
There is an elevator, but they charge a small fee to use it (3 000VND).
It’s best to go up on foot to see what hidden gems lies behind the façade.
Don’t let the rundown aspect of the ground floor deter you from exploring. Here is a complete guide to it, if you want to know what you are heading into. (Vietnam Coracle)
5KU Station
Although we did not go there, this place gets packed with locals starting at happy hour. With outdoor crate tables and seating, this seemed like the trendiest spot we came across in Ho Chi Minh City. It is conveniently located, once again, right outside Japan Town.
PLACES TO VISIT WHEN YOU TRAVEL TO HO CHI MINH CITY
Compared to other places we visited in Vietnam, such as Hanoi and Hué, Ho Chi Minh City doesn’t seem to have many places of interests. Nonetheless, here are some places worth visiting (or not) when you travel to Ho Chi Minh City.
Independence Palace (2 hours)
Once used as the home of the former President of South Vietnam and as the general headquarters of the Americans during the Vietnam War, it is now a museum.
On April 30th, 1975, a tank belonging to the North Vietnamese army crashed through its main gate. The liberation forces entered the palace grounds and raised the flag of liberation for the first time from its rooftop. This event marked the end of the American War (Vietnam War). The original tanks used in the capture of the Palace are now parked beside the main gate.
Access
The entry cost is 40 000VND. It opens at 8 am and closes at 5 pm with a lunch break between noon and 1.30 pm. The last entry is at 4 pm.
We arrived at 4pm and managed to visit it. However, we were feeling the pressure of closing time while we were there, so don’t arrive after 3 pm. Every time we finished a room a door would close behind us. At the end of the tour, I went to the bathroom in the basement. When I got out, it was pitched black and my mom nowhere to be found. Luckily, I wasn’t the only one stranded in the corridor and we managed to find an exit that was still open.
Highlights
Situated in a 12-hectare park, the Palace occupies a 4,500 sq. meter ground space. It is 26m in height and its 95 rooms comprise an interior space of 20,000 sq meters.
Architecture
The Palace’s design reflects the ways in which the architect Ngo Viet Thu took inspiration from his knowledge of eastern philosophy. The building’s overall structural plan is a rendering of an ancient ideogram meaning good fortune.
Mr. Thu used a combination of concrete and wooden embellishments without any curved roof design. Thus, making the structure at once distinctively modern and in tune with ancient Vietnamese architectural design.
The external sun canopies evoke the shape of a tall bamboo. The interior design is a series of spacious rooms opening onto grand corridors, grouped around a monumental central staircase.
Since the end of the war, the interior seems like it has been frozen in time.
State Banqueting Halls
State banquets were held in this room for up to 100 guests. The gold colour scheme was intended to create a convivial atmosphere with a massive painting as it’s focal point.
Conference Hall
Receptions for as many as 500 guests were held in the Conference Hall. Today it is used for official receptions and other important events.
On April 21st, 1975, President Thieu of South Vietnam delivered his 2-hour resignation speech from this room. He was replaced by his vice-president who had to resign just a week later.
Presidential Reception Rooms
The most notable one is the first reception room.
As you’ll notice, the President’s chair is placed on a platform in front of a striped panel symbolizing the flag of the Republic of Vietnam. Facing the President’s throne-like seat is a chair intended for the guest of honor. Both are carved with dragon’s head motifs.
Henry Kissinger met with President Thieu in October 1972 to discuss the acceptance of the agreement now known as the Paris Peace Accords of January 1973.
The second reception room is simpler and a lot more convivial.
The list goes on of what there is to see at the Independence Palace, including the bunker.
Remnants of War Museum (2 hours)
Founded on September 4th, 1975, the Remnants of War Museum exhibits war crimes and consequences inflicted on the Vietnamese people. It also tries to convey a message of preserving global peace and solidarity among nations.
Access
The Remnants of War Museum is located near the Independence Palace. However, it to closes for lunch between noon and 1:30 pm. Therefore, it will be difficult to visit both in just one morning without feeling like you are rushing through them.
The entrance cost is 40 000VND and children under 6 get in for FREE. As some areas of the museum can be a little sensitive for young children, a playroom has been provided for children, under adult supervision.
Highlights
In the front courtyard you’ll notice army helicopters, tanks, bulldozers, setting the tone of the Museum. Also, on the left-hand side, you’ll find an outdoor exhibit on tiger cages (special cells). There, you’ll learn about torture techniques and what exactly tiger cages were used for. Just like in Hanoi, at the Vietnam National History Museum, the war tales will seem one sided.
Exhibits
The exhibits and explanations are better displayed than in Hanoi. Although we are still missing the context of the American War, we get a better understanding of what it entailed. The Vietnamese lost over 3 million people during the war, including civilians. The losses on the ‘foreign’ side really pales in comparison.
The Aftermath of the American War
The effects of the agent orange on the local population and future generations are horrific. Vietnam still has 800,000 tons of unexploded bombs. 6.1 million hectars of land is still contaminated with bombs and explosives. Since the end of the war, until 2002, over 40,000 people were killed by bombs or explosives and more than 60,000 have been wounded.
Notre-Dame Cathedral of Saigon (30 minutes)
Built between 1863 and 1880 by the French colonists with material imported from France, this cathedral really stands out.
The exterior is made with bricks from Toulouse in France and have retained their bright reddish color.
At the time of our visit, there was some type of renovation going on and Covid-19 was starting to spread. Therefore, we were unable to go inside.
There is another church in Saigon worth mentioning that is also pink. It’s called Nha Tho Tan Dinh and located about a 20-minute walk from the Remnants of War Museum. We didn’t have time to go out of our way to see it, but I think it is worth mentioning.
Post Office (30 minutes)
Located across the street from Notre-Dame Cathedral, this period classic 19th century Post Office is a beautiful place to stop at.
The exterior is painted a bright yellow, similar to what you’d find in Hoi An or Hanoi, with white trim. The interior has a tall domed ceiling supported by metal structures designed by Gustave Eiffel and a busy patterned floor.
On either side of the entrance you’ll notice two painted maps of Southern Vietnam-Cambodia and of greater Saigon. Both were painted in 1892.
Another fun feature are the old telephone booths made for skinny people. I could barely fit inside of one! Moreover, this post office will make you want to write and a postcard home. Don’t ask, but it’s really a thing!
City Hall and Ho Chi Minh (1 to 2 hours)
Start from the French colonial style City Hall (1902-1908) and walk down the pedestrian Nguyen Hue avenue all the way down the river.
You’ll come across Ho Chi Minh’s bronze statue, 7.2-meter-high along the way and pass by boutique hotels and the crown jewel of Ho Chi Minh City, Bitexco Financial Tower.
Unfortunately, we didn’t go there as my mom is afraid of heights.
Binh Quoi Village
Located about 30 minutes away from Japan Town by car lies Binh Quoi Village. A one-way taxi ride cost around 150 000VND but if you can use the GRAB app, it will cost you less. Then entrance is FREE.
This recreated typical village of the Mekong Delta is a breath of fresh air. It was so peaceful when we were there and makes for a great place to go there with kids.
I dare you to try to cross one of the bamboo bridges and not fall.
You can rent a boat and fish on the canal if you’d like for 40 000VND from 8 am to 4 pm. However, the only fish I saw were the dead ones floating on the water.
What makes this place worth visiting is its stillness in time. Also, the car ride alone makes it interesting as you’ll have to go through various neighbourhoods. It’s a great way to see how people actually live away from touristy eyes.
Since it’s a bit out of the way, not many foreign tourists go there, making it another reason to visit it.
To get there use this address: 1147, Binh Quoi. Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City.
Scooter Tours
If you are looking for an authentic way of visiting Saigon, check out Tiger Tours.
The tour starts at 8:30 am or 12:30 pm and last between 3.5-4 hours. The cost is around 880 000VND and includes a motorbike or scooter ride, a meal, a drink an hotel pick-up and drop-off.
Spa experience
After a busy day of sightseeing, indulge yourself with a mani-pedi in Japan Town.
My mother and I went to the Gold Spa and had the best experience ever. The staff is really friendly, and kind and you can also get massages there.
The price for a mani-pedi is at least half around the price you’d pay back home in Montreal, around 350 000VND.
DAY TRIPS
There are plenty of day trips that can be done from Ho Chi Minh City when you travel there. We only did one as we only spent 2 and a half days in Ho Chi Minh City.
We visited Vinh Trang Pagoda and some islands of the Mekong Delta. The cost of our day trip was 800 000VND per person which included pick-up and drop off from our hotel, boat rides and a very filling lunch.
Vinh Trang Pagoda
This Buddhist temple is located near the town of My Tho in the Mekong Delta region. This is one of the oldest temples of the region and was completed in 1850.
Mekong Delta Islands
One of the islands we visited is where they make coconut candy. We regret not having any cash on us or else we would have bought some. The coconut candy we tasted was delicious and cost 30 000VND. This would make for a nice gift to bring home without breaking the bank.
They also sell snake alcohol! I took a swiff and that was enough for me.
There are other tours that will take you to the Mekong Delta and have you experience the floating markets of Cai Be or Ben Tre. However, in my opinion, in order to truly experience it you should spend a night or two in that area.
Other popular day trips
As a half day trip, you can visit the Cu Chi tunnels. Used by the Vietcongs during the American War as a mean to get around without getting noticed, these tunnels will show you the soldier’s way of life underground. This tour cost about 550 000VND per person.
Phu Quoc Island
It’s possible to go there as a day trip as the plane ride is only 1 hour, but why would you?
Phu Quoc Island is considered the best place to go to in Vietnam if you are looking for some beach time and snorkeling. Here is what the Telegraph has to say about it.
SOUVENIRS TO BRING HOME FROM HO CHI MINH CITY
Whether you are arriving or leaving from Ho Chi Minh City, there is nothing particular to bring back home. The most notable is the coconut candy, tiger balm and T-shirts. Other than that, it’s best to buy your souvenirs elsewhere at a much more decent price.
FINAL WORDS OF OUR TRAVEL TO HO CHI MINH CITY
My mother and I weren’t particularly impressed by Ho Chi Minh City as it is similar to what you can find in North America but with a twist.
However, in order to avoid a culture shock in Vietnam, you might want to travel to Ho Chi Minh City before heading out to the rest of Vietnam.
Starting in Ho Chi Minh City will allow you to adjust to jet lag, walking around traffic and pollution, without feeling completely disoriented. However, it’s generally hotter there compared to North of Vietnam.
We started our Vietnam trip in Hanoi where it is extremely congested, polluted, loud and dangerous to walk around due to excessive traffic.
Travel first to Ho Chi Minh City if you can, and ease into your travel through Vietnam.
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