1 DAY LAYOVER IN PARIS

When it was decided that I would have a 1-day layover in Paris in order to pick up my mom (aka Jacky) for our trip to Vietnam, I asked myself: what do I want to do?

After all, it’s not like I had never been to Paris before.

If you’ve never been to Paris, this might not be the best article for you unless you are looking for more of an off-the-beaten-path Paris approach.  You can read our Once Upon a Time Travel in Paris for more touristy sights.

HOW LONG IS YOUR LAYOVER?

Obviously, it’s hard to plan a 1-day layover in Paris as it will depend on how long your layover is, where you are flying from and what time you arrive.  For my 1-day layover in Paris, I flew in from Montreal to Paris at 9:30 am with a 6-hour time difference.

If you have less than a 3-hour layover, it would be wiser to stay at the airport.  Here is some information that should help you decide whether or not it’s worth it and what else you can do instead during your short layover in Paris.

3.5 HOURS OR LESS LAYOVER

Paris has 2 major airports: Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) located North of Paris and Orly located South of Paris.  Both airports are accessible by public transit using RER B which crosses through Paris from North to South giving you easy access to most of the major sites. The center of Paris is about 45 minutes away from the two airports by train.  However, there are often problems on the RER B not to mention the strikes, a recurrent theme in France.  Therefore, less than a 3-hour layover might be risking it.

Charles de Gaulle Airport

The cost of a ticket from Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) to anywhere in Paris is €10,30 one way.  It’s best to buy your return ticket right away so as not to have to wait in line again on the return and not be bothered with it again.

In Terminal 2 of CDG, they have installed some arcade games if that is your type of thing and you also have access to FREE Wi-Fi inside the airport. There is also a McDonalds. I’m just putting that out there as McDonald’s doesn’t taste the same as in North America. However, it still remains fast food.

If you are going through Terminal 3 and need some fresh air or a change of scenery, you could just walk across the street into Ibis Suites for some food and drink and video games.  The hotel Ibis located right next to Ibis Suites has more dining options such as a yummy all you can eat buffet for 20 euros per person and some comfortable lounge areas.  They both have a cozy atmosphere and in the Summer you can relax on their outdoor terraces.  Also, they are easily accessible from Terminal 2 via a Free train and it takes about 10 minutes.

The Sacré Coeur (18th Arrondissement)

If you have a 3-hour layover and absolutely want to see Paris, your best option will be the Sacré Coeur.  This is the better option in case of a strike or an accident.  Worse comes to worst, you can grab a taxi back to the airport.

The Sacré Coeur is located in the Northern part of Paris called Montmartre and you’ll have to take the RER B to Gare du Nord from the airport and then either walk or ride the subway (with the same ticket) to Métro Anvers or Barbès Rochechouart to get there. Then, just walk up.  It takes about 1 hour to get there from the airport. From there, you’ll be able to enjoy a splendid view of the city and see the Eiffel Tower from afar.  Walking around Montmartre will for sure make your short layover special with all the old houses and cobblestone streets.

Although it’s very touristy, check out Place du Tertre where you can observe many street artists at work and possibly grab a quick drink and bite to eat.  Le Sacré Coeur is located at the top of a hill, so wear comfortable shoes. 

Did you know that Montmartre has a vineyard that you can visit? It’s not the best wine but cool, nonetheless.

Orly Airport

Located South of Paris, Orly is not as imposing as Charles de Gaulle.

Orly Airport is connected to the RER B train line at the Antony train station by the Orlyval shuttle train. Orlyval is an automatic light metro that has only 3 stops: Antony Train Station and two at Orly Airport. It is the fastest way to connect from Orly Airport to any means of public transport, such as the RER B. The cost of a ticket which includes the Orlyval and RER B is €12.10.

However, when planning your 1-day layover in Paris from Orly Airport, you’ll have to take into consideration the travel time from the Antony train station to the airport. It is about 25 minutes from point A to point B.

If you have less than a 3-hour layover in Paris and absolutely want to get out of the airport, I have to say it, you won’t be able to see Paris, sorry but not enough time.  However, I have the next best thing, a CASTLE!  Alright, it’s not Cinderella’s castle nor Versailles but it is a castle, nonetheless.

Parc de Sceaux

This 17th-century castle is located in Parc de Sceaux, roughly 30 minutes away from Orly Airport.  To get there you’ll have to take Orly Rail and RER B to either Parc de Sceaux or Bourg-la-Reine and walk from there.  The majority of the houses in that area are built in stone and are absolutely gorgeous.

Either in Bourg-la-Reine or better yet in Sceaux grab a baguette sandwich from a Boulangerie (bakery) and have a picnic on the castle’s grounds.  If you are lucky, on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, Bourg-la-Reine has an outdoor market that I personally enjoy going to in order to listen to the vendors scream out their items for sale, the sight, and the smell.  Going to a French outdoor market is a good way of observing French daily life.

The castle might be small, but the grounds are not. During Springtime and Summer, you can find sheep grazing in some parts of the ‘garden’. The small town of Sceaux nearby is adorable and worth a little stroll. 

If traveling with kids, they’ll surely enjoy the nice playground in the middle of the town and some great ice cream and candy from the local boulangerie. From April to August, the Castle’s grounds open at 7 am. For more practical information about visiting this castle where Madonna actually had a concert there in the 80s, read HERE.

4 HOUR AND MORE LAYOVER IN PARIS

If you have 4 hours or more to spare during your layover in Paris, the city awaits with plenty of possibilities.  When planning your layover, don’t forget to take into consideration the weather and if you’ll be towing around luggage as it will play an important factor in your layover planning. Always have a Plan B in case Plan A fails or you have a change of heart.  Stick to the center of Paris and the North of it if you’re going back to Charles de Gaulle or the South if you’re going back to Orly.

I presume that there are lockers for your luggage somewhere if you are traveling with only carry-ons. That is something that you will have to take into consideration if you are planning on leaving the airport.

WHERE TO STAY FOR A 1 DAY LAYOVER IN PARIS

My mother and I stayed at Ibis Suites, located right across from Terminal 3 of Charles de Gaulle.  This was perfect since my first flight arrived in Terminal 3.  I got there around 10:30 am and my room was already ready! Whoohoo.  You can always ask them while making the reservation if they can possibly try to get the room ready earlier.  It doesn’t cost a thing to ask.  Having access to my room when I arrived was perfect!  I was able to get changed, decompress and shower.   They do have a space to leave your luggage though in case your room isn’t ready.

This was my first time staying in an airport hotel and admittedly I was happily surprised.  The interior has a fun and relaxing atmosphere and the food is good. Ibis Suites is located between hotel Ibis and hotel Pullman, so there is something for everyone.

This is a great option if you don’t want to have to rush in the morning and be just 10 minutes away from the airport.  It saves you a lot of time and is a lot less stressful.

As already mentioned above, there are often strikes in Paris.  Therefore, you really need to keep that in mind if you have a 1-day layover in Paris that requires you to stay overnight.  Again, it also depends on the time of day of your layover.

My overnight layover experience

Jacky picked that airport since she was coming directly from Normandy.  Also, she didn’t want to deal with the hassle of taking the Parisian public transit early in the morning.

Since I personally arrived in the morning only to leave the next morning, it made sense to stay at the airport.  Why? Because of the jetlag.  I wouldn’t have enjoyed Paris at night nor in the morning anyways due to it.  Also, the airport hotel allowed me to relax more in between flights after enjoying the Parisian sites all afternoon.

However, I am already familiar with Paris.  Therefore, if it’s your first time in Paris, it would be understandable to want to stay in Paris overnight.  In that case, make sure to pick a lodging that is close to the RER B line for easier access to the airports.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH PARIS

So now that we have covered the logistics, what can you see or do on a 1-day layover in Paris that would make it memorable?

Well, there are so many options and combinations to pick from am I right?  How do you choose?  Well here is a list of off the beaten path ideas for you that won’t break the bank. You can mix and match them as you please. If you can, try to stay in 1 or 2 general areas.

Bon Appétit!

First and foremost, let’s talk about food.    You can’t go to Paris and not make a stop at a Boulangerie whether it’s for breakfast or lunch before starting out on your short journey through Paris.  There are plenty of boulangeries in Paris to pick from, roughly 1 200 actually.  So don’t miss out on the experience, plus it will be a decent meal if you are on a budget.

A full lunch meal which includes: a sandwich baguette of different kinds (try the tuna-egg-tomato or keep it simple with ham and cheese), a drink and a dessert (try the Tarte aux fraises) will cost you around 7 euros.  It really is the go-to meal in Paris and people actually stand in line for it come lunchtime.  What’s great about it is that you can then eat it wherever you want.  Of course, they do offer other kinds of meals in the boulangerie, but the sandwich baguette is the most popular option.

For a late afternoon snack, either have a crêpe on the go when it’s cold outside or some ice cream at a bistro terrace.

Invaders

Whether you are traveling with kids or not, going on a quest to find Invaders can make your layover a lot of fun.

I actually found about 30 on my 1-day layover in Paris!  You can download the app which will allow you to score points every time you flash an Invader.  This is perfect if traveling with the family.  You get to play while doing some sightseeing.  So where can you find them?

Amazingly, they are a bit everywhere.  We saw some in Montmartre, Quartier Latin and in some areas mentioned below.

They come in all shapes, forms, and sizes and are recognizable because they are made of mosaics.  The most common shape though is this one.

Who is Invader and what is it about?

Invader is a French urban artist. He is known for his ceramic tile mosaics modeled on the pixelated art of the 1970s–1980s 8-bit video games, many of which depict the titular aliens from the 1978 arcade game Space Invaders. His creations can be seen in highly-visible locations in over 65 cities in 33 countries. (source Wikipedia)

Canal St-Martin (10th arrondissement)

From the Charles de Gaulle airport, take the RER B to Gare du Nord and then the subway line 5 and get off at Laumière, take the Jaurès exit and head towards the Canal St-Martin.  All the way to the right you will find Le Pavillon des Canaux.

Le Pavillon des Canaux

This is by far the cutest café I have experienced.  Ok, I have to admit, I didn’t eat nor drink there because of my budget, a meal there cost at least 10 euros, but I did take loads of pictures.  Whether you want to hang out with your friends or want to get some work done, it is a beautiful place to do just that. The atmosphere inside feels like you have taken a tiny step back in time in someone’s house.  You can literally sit and work from anywhere, even the bathtub is up for grabs! I could totally see myself pull my laptop out and spend the whole day there!

Quai de Valmy

From Le Pavillon des Canaux, take the bridge to cross over to Quai de Valmy and walk along the canal and watch the Parisian life roll by.  Don’t be alarmed if you see dogs off-leash, it’s not an uncommon thing.

When you get to the Stalingrad Rotonda continue on and admire les écluses (canal lock) and the colorful boutiques along the way.

If you are traveling with kids during Spring and Summer, stop on the canal and rent a boat with Les Moussaillons d’Eau Douce.

Buttes de Chaumont

If you are over and out with the canal, you could make your way to the Buttes de Chaumont.  It’s a beautiful inner-city park and very hilly.  If you are in the area already, it really is worth going to it.  Kids will love running around there and lovers will love laying in the grass.  It also makes for a great spot to picnic.

Picasso Museum

Located near Métro Saint-Paul and Saint-Sébastien Froissart, the Picasso museum is easily accessible from the Marais (see below).

This museum has a wonderful collection of Picasso’s masterpieces and is not overwhelmingly huge.  Therefore, if you are in the area, this would make for a nice addition to your list.

Coulée Verte (12th arrondissement)

Having read about it while writing my article on Paris with kids, I had to check it out for myself.

The Coulée Verte starts in Bastille and ends in Bois de Vincennes.  Overall, there are 4,5km available for you to explore.  The coulée verte is to Paris what the high line is to New York City.  I have to say though, the Coulée Verte came first!

Built on old train tracks, enjoy the Parisian city view from up top amid trees and plants at a leisurely pace.  Although, I didn’t have much time since I had other things on my list to check out to actually enjoy it, what I did see made me want to come back for more.

Even if you only do this on your layover, I promise you won’t be disappointed.  This is one of the little hidden treasures of Paris.

La Coulée Verte can be accessed from the Métro Ledru-Rollin on line 8.

Rue Crémeux

Speaking of hidden treasures, did you know that small colorful houses existed in Paris? Personally, I would have said no and I would have been wrong.  Located at about a 5-minute walk from the Ledru-Rollin entrance of the Coulée Verte you’ll find Rue Crémeux.

It’s a quaint little street with beautiful colorful facades.  When looking at them, you wouldn’t know that you are standing in the middle of Paris.

Victim of its popularity

Unfortunately, it’s not a hidden secret with Instagrammers.  They are everywhere along the street taking pictures of themselves on people’s doorsteps or front doors, don’t be like them! Show a little decency or at least ask for permission.  People do live there.

Nearby is Gare de Lyon where you can admire its huge clock tower which in itself is worth catching a glimpse of.

If you are still up for some exploring, cross the bridge and head towards the Jardin des Plantes.

Jardin des Plantes (5th arrondissement)

Located by the Gare d’Austerlitz, the Jardin des Plantes is the main botanical garden in France and dates back to the 17th century.  Also, this is where you’ll find the Natural History Museum and the impressive Evolution Gallery.  This is especially great if you are traveling with kids.  There is also a little zoo there if that is your kind of thing.  The gardens and buildings are pristine and not overly touristy.

Mint Tea and Hammam

If you are a girl or traveling with your girlfriends, why not relax in a real hammam?  Located right next to the Jardin des Plantes in the Mosque of Paris you can not only have access to a hammam but massages as well and then enjoy an authentic mint tea on the outdoor or indoor terrace.  Going for the tea alone will be a great and different experience in itself, especially if you’ve never traveled to North Afrika before.

The entrance fee is 20 euros and up depending if you want treatments or not. The hammam is reserved for women only, sorry guys.

L’Institut du Monde Arabe

Located close to the Jussieu University lies the Institut du Monde Arabe and was built in 1987. It’s a beautiful building to admire and often houses some great expos.

Visible behind the glass wall, a metallic screen unfolds with moving geometric motifs. The motifs are actually 240 photo-sensitive motor-controlled apertures, or shutters, which act as a sophisticated brise soleil that automatically opens and closes to control the amount of light and heat entering the building from the sun. 

Les Arênes de Lutèce

Even though it’s not a must-see, if you are in the area of the Jardin des Plantes you can swing by there to check out what’s left of a Roman amphitheater.

Ile de la Cité

As a final 1-day layover stop in Paris, check out the renovation progress of Notre Dame from the Pont de l’Archevêché.  It’s a walking distance from Le Jardin des Plantes and you should stop along the way to admire l’Institut du Monde Arabe.

After the inspection of Notre Dame is over, you could stop at the Martyr of the deportation but they close at 4 pm.

Then, either walk to RER B St-Michel station to head on back to the airport or cross over to Ile Saint-Louis and enjoy one of the best ice creams in town Berthillon.

Ice Cream Parlors

The next best thing to Italy’s gelatos is the ones made by Berthillon.  Enjoying an ice cream while walking through the city of Paris can actually feel like a special treat.

If Berthillon isn’t on your way or not open, don’t worry, the Marais is just across the bridge and the two most popular ice cream parlors are Pozzetto (rue du Roi de Sicile) and Amorino (rue Vieille du Temple).  They are actually quite close to each other and easy to find.

Little tip:  There are plenty of Invaders to spot in that area.

Afterward, pass by George Pompidou a colorful building that hosts modern art and head on down to Les Halles to hop back on RER B towards the airport.  George Pompidou also houses a café where you can relax and take in the view. If you want to do a little shopping, you can do that in and around Les Halles, including Le Marais.

I hope you’ll enjoy your 1-day layover in Paris as much as I enjoyed mine.

À bientôt!