Anne-Charlotte PasseraIf you’re living in Quebec right now during Covid-19, you know that everyone seems to be leaving the island of Montreal this Summer to spend one week or two in Gaspésie.
I made this roadtrip with my two kids back in 2012. They were 12 and 4 years old at the time. Back then, I didn’t own a car and lived in a tiny apartment. Child support was scarce as I was getting none from one father and 27$ from the other. No, that amount was per month. Yet, I needed a vacation and wanted to get out of Montreal to do something with my boys.
The region of Gaspésie in Québec is beautiful. Where else can you walk amidst forests of pine trees and smell the ocean air when there is no ocean?
About Gaspésie
The name Gaspésie comes from the Mi’Kmag word Gespe’g meaning Land’s End. It’s a region located in the eastern part of the province of Québec in Canada.
Gaspésie is a rugged windswept peninsula spanning across 11,714 sq.mi. To give you an idea, Gaspésie is slightly larger than Belgium. Yet, according to the 2011 census, only a little over 140,000 people have dared to settle there all year long.
In that area alone, there are four national parks you can visit. There, you’ll be able to spot wildlife such as: seals, caribous, moose, bears, northern gannets and beavers in their natural habitat. All together, the protected natural areas cover 10% of Gaspésie alone.
Gaspésie was discovered in 1534 by the French explorer Jacques Cartier and claimed the land for the King of France at the time, François 1er. This discovery marked the beginning of the presence of the French in North America.
How did we get there?
Was it by train, by plane, by boat? No, it was by car.
We rented a car with Discount as there was an office close to where we lived. This made it easier for me with the kids in tow to pick up and drop off the car without being too much out of our way.
The best way, and most likely the cheapest, to get to Gaspésie from Montreal is by car or with an RV. There are plenty of gorgeous places in Gaspésie to stop along the way which will make your one week there feel like a real adventure.
It’s a really long drive from Montreal to Gaspésie. To get to the entrance of the region alone takes about 8 hours. So, some planning will be required between lodging and sightseeing.
Where to sleep in Gaspésie
There are plenty of accommodations to pick from in Gaspésie from cheap motels to charming bed & breakfast.
Should you plan to visit some of the National Parks, lodging can be provided from ready-made tents to bringing your own. It’s a great option that doesn’t cost a fortune. Also, by waking up inside the park, you’ll have a better chance of seeing the wildlife. They are best seen at dawn or dusk and near water. Obviously, that’s when it’s cooler for them and when the forest is quiet.
If you are planning to travel for one week in Gaspésie during the peak months of July and August, it’s best to book ahead of time.
Of course, at the time we went there, I wasn’t so much of a planner. I had only booked one lodging for three nights. The remaining nights we figured out on the road. It can be rewarding doing it that way but stressful when you are traveling alone with kids. Also, you don’t know what type of lodging will be available and at what cost. However, sometimes you just have to say to hell with it and just go with the flow.
Cime Aventures
When you travel with kids, especially for only a week, it’s best to have a base camp, at least for a couple of days in a row.
Our main base camp was in Bonaventure at Cime Aventures. It’s located two hours away from Percé, less than 15 minutes away from the Bioparc, 1h15 minutes from Miguasha National Park, and a good 9-hour drive from Montreal.
We spent three nights there in a trailer, which was our first time. I didn’t own a tent at the time and to be honest, I don’t even know, to this day, how to start a fire.
Since we liked it so much there and didn’t have any other pending reservations, we stayed one extra night, in a tipi!
There are plenty of different accommodations to pick from for every budget and every lifestyle.
Cime Aventures is a well-run place, with FREE Wi-Fi, where dogs are allowed and where you can book different activities through them to do as a family.
If it weren’t for the distance, it’s a place that I would love to go back to.
Château Bahia
Remember when I said that I hadn’t booked accommodations (aside from Cime) before heading out to with my kids to Gaspésie for one week?
Well sometimes, that can be a good thing to not plan everything ahead of time. If I had, we wouldn’t have stumbled upon this little gem, located 8 hours away from Montreal.
As I was struggling to find decent accommodations along Rte 132 before nightfall, I finally saw the sign. HALLELUJAH! We made a left onto a dirt road, not knowing where it would lead to and what we would find. Admittedly, I was a little scared.
Turns out, Château Bahia is a wooden castle built by the owner with the help of his father back in the 80s. It took well over 16 years to build. Luckily for us, they had one room left to accommodate the three of us.
We all had to sleep in the same bed, but it was a much more decent option then staying in a cheap motel along the side of the road.
You can a meal there in the banquet hall with the owner and other tourists. It’s a great way to meet people and eat a typical meal from Quebec. The cost was about 20$ per adult for the meal (less for the kids) and the room was around 90$. This was back in 2012, so the prices probably changed.
It’s not a high-end place but the uniqueness of this type of lodging will definitely spark your curiosity.
Addendum
As I was writing this article I discovered that Chateau Bahia was for sale. How unfortunate! Hopefully, it will find a new owner before the 2021 season starts. However, in case you are interested, for $500,000 it can be yours!
I told Big Boss about it, but that’s not the kind of life adventure he is looking for.
How much does it cost a one-week road trip to Gaspésie?
As with everywhere else in Quebec, one week in Gaspésie will not come cheap.
Since it’s a long drive from Montreal, gas will take a good chunk of your budget along with the lodging.
It cost me about $2,000 with my two kids in tow for one week of traveling. Of course, in that price is included the car rental.
We also visited a few places of interests which increased the cost.
Not having to rent a car and possibly spending a few nights in a tent will help you bring that price tag down.
If you’re planning on visiting some of the National Parks in Gaspésie, buy an annual pass beforehand. This will save you money in the long run and force you to visit other parks much closer to home. Heck, you’ll have a full year left of exploring to do.
What’s the weather like in Gaspésie?
When it rains it pours!
During our road trip to Gaspésie, back in 2012, it pretty much rained or it was cloudy the whole time we were there. Thus, we haven’t been back there since then.
The best month to visit Gaspésie is in July where it has the warmest temperatures and less amounts of rain.
Therefore, don’t forget to pack a rain jacket, rain boots, and a sweater during the Summer months.
Things to do in Gaspésie
Obviously, if you only have one week in Gaspésie, you won’t be able to see it all.
Out of 7 days, 2 days will be spent driving from Montreal and back.
Plan some stops along the way to make your road trip journey more enjoyable, especially if you have kids.
Here are some of the places that we visited during our one-week road trip to Gaspésie from Montreal.
Parc National du Bic
Located 5 hours away from Montreal lies the gorgeous National Park of Bic.
Dogs are allowed there but only on certain trails.
Walk along the Saint-Lawrence River and breath in the aroma of salty air. The river there is salty which will really make you feel like you are next to the ocean. Unfortunately, it’s an illusion as the water is freezing!
To that smell, add the one of the pine trees that stand tall along the river’s shores.
Make a well-deserved pit stop at the tea house Rose des Thés which is open from 11a.m to 5 p.m every day.
Also, it’s not uncommon to catch a glimpse of seals sunbathing on a rock along the shores.
Rimouski
The town of Rimouski is pretty ordinary. Truth be told that we didn’t visit the town itself as we only stopped there to visit a submarine and lighthouse.
If you or your kids have never visited either one, well this is a good place to do so. I suggest getting the audio guide for the submarine to make the visit more interesting for your little one.
Did you know that you can sleep in lighthouses in Quebec?
You can’t in the one in Rimouski but you can at Pot à l’eau de vie. It’s located on an island close to Riviere du Loup, 4 hours away from Montreal and 1 hour away from National Park of Bic.
However, no dogs and children under the age of 10 are allowed there.
If you can splurge a little, as one night there costs over $200 per person, this would be another great unusual place to spend the night. Also, how wonderful would it be to end your one-week itinerary in Gaspésie by sleeping in the oldest light house of Quebec?
Jardins de Métis
We took a little detour on our way to Bonaventure to check out the gorgeous Jardins de Métis (Gardens).
If it hadn’t been for the distance, I would have wanted to have our wedding there.
The entrance fee is pretty hefty, $22 for an adult. On the other hand, it’s FREE for kids under the age of 13.
Good to know: the first Sunday of July, August and September it’s FREE to visit.
They are open from 8:30 a.m to 7 p.m every day during the Summer months.
Dogs are not allowed inside the gardens but have access to the trails of Parc de la Rivière Mitis.
Things to know about the gardens
Every year is held in the gardens the most important contemporary garden festival in North America (according to their website).
“Serving as a blank canvas for many designers over the years, the Festival has inspired architects and landscape architects to approach public spaces with a new perspective”.
My kids really loved exploring all the various installations. We must have spent a good 3 hours walking throughout the grounds.
Then, there is also the historical gardens to wander through with at every turn something new to discover.
This place is pure heaven and even if you’re not a big fan of flowers, you really ought to pay this place a visit.
Kayaking
When we stayed at Cime Aventures in Bonaventure we took a 9km kayaking trip down the river.
It was my first-time kayaking, and I was 36 years old at the time! Ever since then, when ever I get a chance to kayak, I hop on it!
There is no better feeling than floating on a river. Personally, I prefer it to canoeing, but that’s just me.
The river Bonaventure is a wonderful place to kayak, canoe, tube with the whole family or with friends.
The Rocher Percé (Percé’s rock) is sort of the emblem of Gaspésie and probably the most photographed element of the region.
It’s 1420 ft wide (433m) with a natural arch. Once attached to the continent, it started distancing itself from it in the mid-19th century.
Bonaventure Island
Don’t confuse the island with the river or the town as the island is two hours away from them.
The island is located in the town of Percé where the rock is. Both are part of the National Parc de l’Ile Bonaventure. No dogs are allowed on the island.
To access it, you’ll have to take a ferry and only dry toilets can be fond on the island.
The cost of the ferry doesn’t come cheap. For an adult, expect to pay around $35 and $18 for kids ages 6 to 15. The cost doesn’t cover the entrance fee to the Park.
Word of caution: the water can be rough. Don’t do what I did which was to feed hot dogs to my kids prior to boarding the ferry. Junior spilled his lunch in a plastic bag I happened to have on hand and Blondie Bear just did it overboard! I managed to keep it together up to the dry toilets on the island.
What to see on the island
There is a 9km loop you can take around the island. It’s a beautiful walk and is fairly accessible with a stroller but more practical with a baby carrier.
Upon approaching the other side of the island, you’ll start hearing the very loud sound of over 200,000 northern gannets and other migratory birds. It’s the continent’s largest colony of gannet seabirds.
You can observe them from different view points going about their daily life such as fighting, mating, nesting and so on.
It’s really an impressive sight that you won’t soon forget.
Also, along the trail, seals can be spotted surfing the waves or chilling once again on rocks.
Bioparc
I’m not a big fan of zoos, but if you don’t have time to check out the national parks of Gaspésie and its wildlife, this is the next best thing.
Located only 15 minutes away from where we stayed in Bonaventure, the Bioparc is a great family activity to do.
The entry fee is $24 per adult and $15 for children ages 3 to 14.
In this park, you’ll be able to learn about 5 ecosystems that are present in Quebec and in particular to the region of Gaspésie.
Also, through guided tours you and your young ones will discover and learn all about the fauna that can be found in Gaspésie and throughout Quebec.
National Park of Miguasha
If you’re into fish and plant fossil from 380 million years ago, which I’m not but my kids are, you can learn all about them at the National Park of Miguasha.
The park’s fossil rich cliff is in fact part of the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Personally, I really enjoyed the 3.5 km hike along the cliff and in land. Along the evolution trail, take time to read the panels which tell you about the history of life on our planet.
Furthermore, if you’re traveling with your dog, he can come along with you to hike the evolution trail.
What to bring back after one week in Gaspésie
To be honest, when you travel to Gaspésie whether for one week or more, it’s more to be one with nature than to shop.
However, while driving around, it will be hard not to notice signs for bee or goat farms. The places make for a great pit stop.
You can learn about beehives, honey making, goat milk, and goat cheese. If you want to bring back something authentic from your trip to Gaspésie, these are the places to look out for. We brought back honey and goat milk soap.
Microbreweries
Furthermore, it won’t come as a surprise that you can find a couple microbreweries in Gaspésie. In fact, there is an itinerary you can take around the peninsula to discover them all.
However, with only one week in Gaspésie, it will be hard to hit all of them, especially with kids in tow.
After your walk and ferry ride to Bonaventure Island, try out the Lollipop beer at Pit Caribou.
Apparently, it’s refreshing and fruity with its main flavors being lemon, strawberry and raspberry. If you have to drive, just buy one or two to drink when you get back home to Montreal.
Food
Despite not being able to bring some home, eat some fresh lobster rolls, northern shrimps or smoked salmon from one of the 22 salmon rivers in Gaspésie. The experience alone will make for some lasting memories.
Traveling to Gaspésie for one week as a single mom of two was not hard despite my lack of planning.
The long drive was more challenging than anything else believe it or not.
A fond memory I have about the car ride though is Blondie Bear (age 4 at the time) rocking it to the sound of Paradise by Coldplay. It’s no wonder that I took him to see them in 2017 as part of my Turning 40 Doing 40 list.
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