A ONCE UPON A TIME TRAVEL GUIDE TO COLOMBIA

From the lush green valleys of Medellin to the beautiful Caribbean beaches up North, travel to Colombia is one of the most adventurous travel experiences we have done thus far and one worth doing.

Our friends and family were surprised when we told them our plan to travel to Colombia for our Honeymoon, with backpacks I might add. Why Colombia? Isn’t it dangerous? Wait a minute, isn’t it where Pablo Escobar was from?

Because. Not really. Yes, but let’s not mention him.

To be honest, we picked Colombia because it is relatively inexpensive to travel there.  In fact, Colombia is one of the cheapest countries to travel to in South America after Bolivia.  However, you best hurry to get there because I don’t know how long it will last.  This South American country is booming tourism-wise and not just with foreigners.  Since the country has become more stable, more and more Colombians are finally leaving their cities to go and explore their own country.

Word of advice: DON’T DO DRUGS.  Since most of Columbia is trying to steer away from the drug stigma (cocaine) it has endured over the last decades, help them in not buying drugs there.  Also, prostitution is a major problem in the country.  A lot of the girls come from other countries and not willingly.  STAY AWAY.  I’m not your mother, so you can do as you please, but I doubt you’d want to visit a Colombian jail and have to make a call to your own mother.

How did we end up picking Colombia?

Our initial plan was to travel to Indonesia for our Honeymoon, only because I had found a really good travel deal a year prior.  So when it came time to actually book a year later, there was no such deal.  I kept an eye out for months, but that deal never came.

We said I DO on a budget, so our honeymoon had to be on a budget as well.  Therefore, we needed a travel destination we could actually afford and enjoy at the same time.  We sort of had given hope in finding such a destination and had even thought of maybe doing a road trip down the East coast of the US with our dog!  Who says romance is dead?

In any case, while sick and lying in bed at home, I was watching a Colombian-Spanish series on Netflix called Always a Witch.  The set was mainly based in Cartagena although they didn’t mention it by name at first. I was really intrigued by the beautiful colonial city that appeared on the screen.  Therefore, I looked it up to see where it was located.  Yes, I had heard about the city, just hadn’t put 2 and 2 together.  When thinking about Colombia, Caribbean beaches aren’t the first things that come to mind.  I then proceeded to look at flights and they were the most affordable ones I had seen.   I texted my then fiancé and future husband about it and the rest is history!

GETTING THERE

We flew into Medellin from Montreal with the airline Interjet and had a layover in Cancun, Mexico, both ways.  There are direct flights from Montreal to Colombia, but only on Mondays and Fridays according to Google.

The airlines that fly from Canada to Colombia are Air Canada, Interjet and Aeromexico.

The 3 main international airports in Colombia are located in the capital City of Bogota, in Medellin and Cartagena.

It cost us 800$ each to go to Colombia, including an internal round trip flight within the country and checked baggage.

Things to know for a layover in Cancun.

We had a 4 hour and a 7-hour layover in Cancun.  I had thought of leaving the airport during our longer layover but then decided not to.  It turns out that even though we had checked 1 bag, we still had to pick it up during our layover.  One of the reasons is because we had to change terminals for the connecting flight both ways. 

Therefore you are stuck with your bags if you want to go to Cancun city!  We didn’t check if there was an area to leave them though and we wouldn’t have wanted to pay for it anyways. 

Furthermore, since we couldn’t drop off our bags in advance despite already having our boarding cards for the connecting flight, we still had to wait to be able to do so.  Lastly, a taxi ride would have required Mexican pesos or possibly US dollars which we had neither of.

Fortunately, Cancun airport is not that bad and provides free entertainment.  There are plenty of places to grab a good bite there as well.

Tip: Don’t forget to fill out the immigration form on the plane or just on the way out, as well as the section at the bottom. This will save you time. Also, if you stay in Mexico for less than 24 hours, there is no exit fee to pay.

GETTING AROUND

Public transportation is decently priced and well-diversified.  There are a lot of different travel options making it easier to get around Colombia without having to rent a car.

We only tested public transit in Medellin, intercity flights from Medellin to Santa Marta and then Cartagena to Medellin, and buses in between cities. Oh and let’s not forget the Tuks Tuks in Guatapé and the moto-taxi in Minca!

Aside from our airplane tickets that we booked online and the bus ticket we bought to get to Guatapé, we paid for everything in cash.  I don’t recall, for example, if it was possible to grab a taxi and pay by credit card.  Since our bad experience with Uber in San Francisco, we don’t use it anymore. 

FORMALITIES

You don’t need a visa if you are from Canada, the United States or from Europe if you stay less than 90 days.  However, always double-check in case things change.  My co-worker who had just traveled to Colombia on a Canadian passport had to pay an exit fee of 80 $USD when he left Bogota.  There might not need to have a visa but there could very well be some hidden fees.  That had happened to us during our trip to Belize while transiting through Mexico.  Unfortunately, you’ll have to prepare yourself to be scammed a lot if you travel to Colombia.

Vaccines

You don’t necessarily need special vaccines if you are staying in major cities.  We got our yellow fever shot done because we were traveling to Tayrona Park and they recommend having it in order to access the park.  You can check with your local vaccine travel agency if you need one.  Obviously, any jungle excursion (Lost City) or Amazonian expedition will require some type of vaccines such as yellow fever or malaria.

If in Quebec, you can check out if a Jean Coutu near you do vaccines because some of them do and it’s a lot cheaper than doing so in a private agency.

Furthermore, always make sure that all your other vaccines are up to date when traveling to countries that are not as developed as yours.

MONEY MONEY

Changing your money into Colombian Pesos (COP)  in your own country might be difficult.  It’s best to call up wherever you want to change money if they have that currency before going there.  This is something to plan a couple weeks in advance.  Colombian pesos come in really big bills, the smallest is 5000!  Be careful with the money as some of the bills look different.  For example, there are 2 types of 20 000 bills, one which might look like another currency bill. This is an easy way of getting scammed when you are looking to give out bills and you just might give out more than necessary.  The same goes for coins.

Unless you have US Dollars to change, the best option to get cash is by using your credit card in an ATM. You’ll have a better exchange rate that way.

DO YOU SPEAK THE LANGUAGE?

The official language is Spanish.  If you don’t know any, best to start learning some now, unless you have some of those translating apps such as google translate to help you.  However, most of these apps require a Wi-Fi connection.

In some hostels we stayed at, they spoke some English.  However, in most places we stayed at they didn’t.  Since Cartagena is really touristy, it will be easier to find people who do speak English.  Most of the menus in the restaurants in Cartagena will also be in English.

At least for the free city tours, you can get an English speaking guide. French? Forget about it!

Here are some useful language tips aside from the obvious that should help you not starve to death:

WHAT TO SEE IN COLOMBIA

Colombia has a lot to offer every type of traveler.  Whether you are into lazing around on a beach, hiking and navigating through a jungle, or into the food scene and nightlife, Colombia will have you covered. Whatever type of activity you desire, Colombia will most likely offer and at a relatively lower cost than other countries.

• Eat some delicious meals in Cartagena and Medellin (Poblado area).
• Go paragliding in Medellin.
• Explore the Amazon River from the little town of Leticia.
• Discover the Lost City on a 4-day trek in the Sierra Nevada from Santa Marta.
• Enjoy sunbathing in the Caribbean Sea on the Rosario Islands off the coast of Cartagena.
• Go whale watching off the pacific coast from Nuqui or Solano from July to October.
• Visit a coffee plantation in the middle of the jungle that is more than 100 years old in Minca.

WHERE TO EAT & SLEEP

Your best bet for food, at least when it comes to lunch, is to eat in a local restaurant or cantina.  Most places will serve a Menu del Día (daily special).  They call it Corrientazo and it includes a soup or salad, a choice of meat (pork, chicken or beef) or fish, white rice (sometimes with coconut… yum yum), fried potatoes, fried plantain, an arepa and a juice (fruit or lemonade). The prices generally range from 6,000COP to 12,000COP. 

We enjoyed a Corrientazo in Cartagena at Espiritu Santo, in Medellin at Rico Pollo Asado (in Communa 13) and in Santa Marta at Mango Beach.

Understanding the menus can get tricky when you don’t speak Spanish and they aren’t usually translated.  Read our language section for useful tips in knowing what you are ordering.

When it comes to tipping, you don’t tip in local restaurants.  In middle price range restaurants, tipping is optional.  You will see on your bill an 8% optional tipping.  You don’t have to, but if you liked the service and food you can.  In high-end restaurants, the tip is automatically added to your bill, so you don’t have to add an extra tip.  In taxis, you don’t tip.

I know that coming from NORTH AMERICA, you are used to tipping but it’s not the case in other countries and that’s ok!  Tipping systematically in other countries that don’t practice that will just penalize the locals. In my opinion, the service should always be included in the restaurant bill.  Afterward, if the service really stood out, you can make the choice to add a tip.

Sleep tight don’t let the bed bugs bite

In terms of sleeping, we stayed in hostels most of the time. Sometimes in a shared private room of 4, a private room, a dorm but with a private double bed, a treehouse, a hut by the sea and once on a resort.  You can get decent private rooms in hostels that will cost you a lot less than a hotel room.  However, if traveling with kids, most of the hostels we stayed at were for 18 years old and up.

One of the benefits of staying in a hostel aside from the cost is that you can meet people and possibly share the cost to get somewhere, discover tips that aren’t necessarily in the guidebooks and get up to date information on certain destinations.  For example, we met an Irish girl in Cartagena who told us that she felt unsafe to go out at night in Bogota alone (kidnapping and theft). Actually, the hostel she was staying at recommended that she doesn’t go out by herself and to call a taxi. Another couple told us that there had been some shootings in Bogota close to some tourist spots while they were there. Another benefit of staying in a hostel is being able to make your own food and socializing.

WHAT TO PACK

When packing to travel to Colombia, don’t forget some good walking shoes, especially if you’re planning on going into the jungle and sandals.

Bring an extra backpack but of a smaller size if you are planning on doing some overnight side trips.  You can usually leave your suitcase or backpack at the hostel or hotel while you do your little escapade, even if you are not staying there upon your return.  It’s usually free but some places might make you pay a small fee. Why a small backpack? It’s easier to carry if you are going to Minca for example and riding a moto-taxi if you are trekking to the Lost City or staying in Tayrona park overnight.  A suitcase in those types of places will be cumbersome, to say the least.

There isn’t really a need to bring your own water bottle since you can’t drink tap water there.  Well at least, it’s not recommended.  So, you’ll have to buy actual water bottles which is a pain to carry.  However, in some hostels, they did have some water fountains where you could refill your water bottle for free or for a small fee.

Long sleeve shirt and pants if you are traveling to areas where there are mosquitoes.

A rain jacket for the jungle.

If you are coming from North America, you won’t need a travel adapter as electricity is the same.

You can read our Ultimate guide to eco-friendly packing for extra travel packing tips in general.

WHAT’S THE WEATHER LIKE?

We traveled to Colombia at the end of July and early August.  It was really warm and dry in Medellin.  Medellin is known as the city of eternal Spring.  So, it’s a safe bet to travel there whenever you want.

Up North, close the Caribbean sea, it was hot and humid.

It was cooler in Minca as it’s in the jungle and that is where we did experience some rain.  When it rains there, it pours.  Minca is only 30-45 minutes away from Santa Marta but you will experience a pleasant temperature drop. 

The high travel season in Colombia is between December to February.  I assume that weather-wise it must be the best time to go.  However, when we were there, we had great weather albeit a little too hot and humid for our taste.  Summer (northern hemisphere) is a good time to travel to Colombia since the prices will be a little lower.

IS MY WALLET SAFE?

Safety was a big concern for our family and friends.  Honestly, we didn’t encounter any problems.  If you stick to touristy areas, then you should be fine.  However, don’t get too close to the Venezuelan and Panama borders, as of right now, it remains unsafe.

Wear your day pack in front of you if you are going into certain areas that seem unsafe to you.

However, we did see someone shoot a gun up in the air when we were in Guatapé.  It was the day after Colombia’s independence day.  I thought it was a fake but my husband confirmed (after the guy passed us) that it was real. Oh wow!

When using the ATM, if you can, go with a friend or someone you know who will stand next to you and look around while you do your transaction.  There have been quite a few thefts that way.

Finally, don’t risk it and leave all your jewelry at home.  Since we had just gotten married, we left our wedding bands at home and bought some 20$ rings in Medellin.  My husband ended up forgetting his ring in the shower of a hostel, never to be seen again. Better be safe than sorry.

CAN YOU GO THERE WITH KIDS?

I am unsure of how to respond to that question.  It really depends on your children’s age for this.

In my opinion, if they are really young (less than 2), or are old enough to carry some type of backpack and walk good distances (8 and up), than yes you can take them.

In most places we visited, having a stroller would have been a nuisance.  Therefore, if your child can be carried in a carrier or can walk long distances, then yes bring them along.

Since we were on our Honeymoon, we didn’t bring the kids along.  However, you can read our post about our Travel tips to Colombia with kids. There you will find information that can be helpful and fun if you plan to travel to Colombia with kids.

OUR COLOMBIA ITINERARY

We spent a little over 2 weeks in Colombia.  We got a good glimpse of the country but not enough.  Personally, I wouldn’t mind going back and doing the trek to the Lost City, staying again in our hostel in Santa Marta and exploring the Amazon (completely in the opposite direction of Santa Marta).

We landed in Medellin and spent 5 nights there altogether.  From Medellin, we took a bus to Guatapé and stayed overnight. Afterward, we flew from Medellin to Santa Marta up North.

In Santa Marta, we spent 2 nights there and took a bus to Minca and Tayrona Park where we spent 2 nights in each location.

From Santa Marta, we took a 4-hour bus ride to Cartagena where we spent 5 nights there including 1 in a resort on an island.

Finally, we flew back to Medellin from Cartagena and then flew home.

It took us a really long time to catch up on our rest.  We really started enjoying our travel around Colombia close to the end of our trip.  It has nothing to do with the country, more with some places where we stayed and definitely because of our wedding which was extremely tiresome.

We preferred Medellin’s vibe compared to Cartagena’s where we felt it was too touristic and the people we more aggressive with their prices.  That being said, you should definitely travel to Colombia, especially if you are of the adventurous type.