ONCE UPON A TIME IN … CARTAGENA (COLOMBIA)

Cartagena in Colombia is part of the Unesco World Heritage due to its 16^th-century walls that surround the Old City with squares, cobblestones streets, and beautiful colonial buildings which are accented by incredible bougainvillea covering up the old balconies. It was founded in 1533.

It is rich in history with pirate stories, slave trade, the Spanish Inquisition, the independence movement and remains to this day one of the major port cities of Colombia.  In the colonial era, it was known as Cartagena de Indias as it was the main port for trade between Spain and its overseas empire.

Despite being overly touristic, Cartagena is a beautiful city to visit nonetheless and should absolutely be on your top places to visit in Colombia if you’ve never been. Furthermore, if you are traveling with kids, she is very accessible.

HOW TO GET THERE

By Plane

Cartagena is easily accessible by plane with a lot of international destinations.  Also, you can just as easily fly into it or from it by using Latam airline for intercity flights.  Our flight from Cartagena to Medellin cost us 75$CAD per person including 1 checked baggage.

A taxi ride from the airport to the Old City should cost you around 8000COP.  Make sure you negotiate the price before entering your taxi as they have a tendency in trying to rip you off in Cartagena, more so than any other city in Colombia that we visited.

By Bus

If you’re coming from Santa Marta or vice versa, it will cost you around 44000COP and the ride will take about 4 to 5 hours.  We used the company Marsol from Santa Marta to take us to Cartagena and they drop you off at your hotel.

GETTING AROUND

Walking is the best way to get around the Old City.  You can use the horse and carriage to sight-see but when you look at the conditions of the horses, you might want to stay away.  At least they are somewhat responsible for them and they only start working at 5pm, when it starts to cool off in the city.

Otherwise, you can always grab a taxi but always ask at the reception desk how much a ride will cost to take you where ever you want to go.  Then, when you ask the cost to your taxi driver you’ll know if he is trying to rip you off and you can always try to bargain the price down.

WHERE WE STAYED

There are plenty of lodging options to pick from in Cartagena.  We wanted to stay in the Old City as it’s close to everything we needed to see and do.  If you can, pick one that has a pool so that you can cool off during the day or after doing some sightseeing.

Républica Hostel

We only stayed in this hostel because we had an extra night to spend in Cartagena after canceling a night in a crappy resort.  That’s ok. After staying in the Républica Hostel in Santa Marta, we really wanted to check this one out.  Despite the design being the same, the vibe is a little different.  It has a more backpacker feel but is still in a really cool place.  Breakfast was not included and we spent the night in a dorm with a double bed.  The dorm was actually nice.  I did check out their private rooms and wouldn’t have minded staying in one of them.  The kitchen is really small which makes it really hard to cook if there are a lot of people passing by as it’s so close to the bar and pool area.

When you stay in a Républica Hostel you can get 20% off your next stay with them in one of their other locations such as Bogota and Santa Marta.  However, you need to either book directly through their website or at the front desk.  You cannot get the reduction through Booking.com and you need to keep your bracelet for proof.

The Clock Hostel

Another place we enjoyed staying in Cartagena (Colombia) was at the Clock Hostel.  It’s conveniently located and just a few steps away from Puerto del Reloj.  We stayed again in a dorm, a big one.  Moreover, what’s really neat about it is that they have set up these sleeping cubes with three levels.  We slept on top, with our own little staircase, a table, and 2 chairs and a curtain for privacy.  The interior is dark which helps in sleeping in, especially if you were kept up all night by the sounds of the street and late night owls. 

However, the only setback was the bathroom.  There were 3 individual large bathrooms on our floor (shower and toilet).  This is great, but not when all you want to do is go to the bathroom.  I checked it out at different times and there was always someone in it for a long time. There is a toilet on the ground floor near the Jacuzzi if you get tired of waiting.

If you are looking for things to bring back home, check out the store right next to it.  This is where we bought our hammock chair for 80000COP.  I don’t know if it was a good deal or not, but we were fine paying that price.  The vendors in the store are really nice and helpful and only come to see you when you ask them.

WHERE WE ATE

There are plenty of great places to eat in Cartagena (Colombia) just like that there are plenty of nice places to stay.  It’s hard to pick from.  However, if the restaurant owner needs to be aggressive about making you eat inside his restaurant, don’t even bother checking it out.  Going up to a restaurant to check out their menu might bring you unwanted attention.  It’s really annoying.  Here are a few places we checked out without having to be lured into them.

Espiritu Santo

If you want to eat in an authentic place, check out Espiritu Santo.  The service is great, they speak some English and you’ll pay 12000COP for the Menu del Dia. The interior is nothing spectacular, but it’s a popular spot for locals and adventurous tourists alike.  Read our Guide to Colombia for more information on eating out in Colombia.

El Bistro

We found this place thanks to our Lonely Planet Guide book.  El Bistro restaurant is located on the second floor of an old building in a cozy and calm environment.  This is the perfect place if you want to get away from the sounds of the busy city life.  The food is a little bit pricier than other places but it is refreshing.  I particularly enjoyed the classy artsy atmosphere.  If you want to give yourself the time to sit down, relax and actually enjoy a meal in peace and quiet, this is the place to do so.

San Pedro Mirador

Located on the square in front of a church, if you are into people watching, this is the perfect place to eat at.  You won’t be bothered by street vendors as there is a security line they cannot pass.  There are huge dining rooms inside but we preferred to eat outside.  The food and service were great but a little pricy.  Since it was our final night in Cartagena we decided to treat ourselves.  If you want to feel like you are on vacation in some European city knowing full well you are not, this is the place to do so.  It is a popular spot and very touristy.

Café del Mar

We didn’t go, but it has the nicest sunset view in the city (supposedly).  If you want to be able to get a good spot you need to get there by 4pm.

Interno

Another place we didn’t try because it wasn’t in our budget.  The 3-course meal costs a whopping 90000COP!  However, this restaurant is part of a rehabilitation program, so your meal will be prepared and served by actual inmates.  I saw a documentary on it and apparently, this place is worth checking out and the food is good.  However, I believe that you need to book ahead in order to eat there.

Supermarket

If you want to cook your own food, there are plenty of supermarkets inside the Old City that can meet your needs. Look for the Exito supermarket chain as it has the best prices. Don’t be surprised though to see street vendors selling their own fruits and what not right outside of the supermarket. I don’t know what the deal is, but it’s tolerated.

THINGS TO DO IN CARTAGENA COLOMBIA

There are a few things you can do in Cartagena to keep you busy for 2 whole days.  If you want to check out the islands, you’ll have to add at least 1 whole day to your trip.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas

This fortress was strategically built in the mid-16^th century by the Spaniards outside Cartagena’s city walls on a hill overlooking any approaches by sea or by land.  The entry cost is 25000COP.  It’s a bit expensive when you don’t have a guide and the brochure doesn’t help explaining anything at all.  Nonetheless, you get a wonderful view of the Old City of Cartagena (Colombia) and I suggest walking through the tunnels to get an idea of what it was like living inside of it.

According to my Lonely Planet guidebook, this is the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies.

We got there really early, around 8:30 am, so there weren’t many people, but the sun was already out and hot!  Bring water, sunglasses, and something to cover your head.

It’s an easy 10-15 minute walk from Puerto de Reloj so there is no need to take a taxi to get to it.  On your way back, walk through the artsy neighborhood of Getsemani and grab breakfast or lunch before heading back into town.

Conventa de la Popa

Located on the highest point in Cartagena, lies this convent.  There are still monks who live there, but only less than 10 (I don’t remember the actual number).

It was founded in 1607 by Augustine fathers.  The only thing worth mentioning about this place is the cloister and the incredible views.  The entry costs 12000COP and its best to get there by taxi. The taxi ride cost 30000COP 1 way and the driver usually waits for you, at least ours did.   Luckily, as it’s not like you can call Uber to get back down.

If you have time to kill, it makes for a nice visit, but you don’t need to go out of your way to visit it.

Getsemani

Located just outside Cartagena’s city walls a few steps away from the Puerto de Reloj, lies the up and coming neighborhood of Getsemani.  If you are in the mood in soaking up some art in all shapes and form you should absolutely check it out. Walk around this vibrant neighborhood amidst Spanish colonial architecture, dance halls, graffiti art, boutique hotels, food vendors, public plazas, and poets.  Don’t forget to look for the Umbrella Alleys.  We found 2!

La Serrezuela

If you’re into shopping, you might want to check out the brand new Serrezuela Mall, located right on the northern edge of the old town.  It has a really big rotunda in which you can go up (it has stadium seating) with a water fountain in the middle that puts on a light show.  However, they weren’t great in the planning and didn’t create a slope for the water to drain out properly.  Hopefully, they got that fixed somehow or else, don’t be surprised to see two guys pushing water out with their brooms.

Aside from its architecture, cool air, and fancy stores, there are a few places where you can eat and drink in a cool setting.  I grabbed an excellent ice cream from Crêpes & Waffles (a franchise) while Big Boss enjoyed a cool beer at the bar next door.  Once again, the tiles that I love and want to use in our bathroom were there.  It’s fate! You can read about our trip to Santa Marta to see where else we saw these tiles.

Also, check out the Colombian retail store for men called STIK.  They make great shirts, perfect for summer vacations and a reasonable price.

Free City Guided Tour

The free city guided tour of Cartagena is a must-do if you’ve just arrived in Cartagena and need to get a quick view of the city.  It starts off at the Puerto de Reloj at 10 am or ask for information at your lodging’s reception desk for more information.  The voluntary tip should be no more than 20000COP, but 15000COP is recommended.  Don’t let yourself get scammed.  There is no reason why it should be more expensive than in Medellin.

The tour will take you around the following places.

Palacio de la Inquisicion

It’s not worth visiting but interesting to go to.  Look for the small window on the lefthand side with a cross above it.  I guess they must have either been very tall at the time or arrived on horses.  This is where the heretics were denounced during the Spanish Inquisition. In front of it lies yet another park dedicated to Simon Bolivar (read our article about Santa Marta).  It’s a beautiful square surrounded by lots of colonial houses with their elegant balconies.  Also, if you need shade, it’s a good place to go to.

Puerto del Reloj

The Puerto del Reloj (Clock Tower) is an easy meeting spot.  You can use it as a reference to navigate around the city.  However, just be aware that at night, this is where hookers come to ‘work’.  Originally, this was the main gateway into the inner walled town of Cartagena (Colombia).

Plaza de Los Coches

This beautiful square was once the place where the slave trade would take place.  Yes, it’s a fact that a market would take place there to sell people.  Unfortunately, you can’t change history. Nowadays, at night, this is where people sell their bodies, so you might want to avoid it. It’s located right in front of the Puerto del Reloj.

Plaza de la Aduana

This is the largest and oldest square within the old city of Cartagena (Colombia). A statue of Christopher Columbus lies in the middle of the square although I don’t recall him ever stepping foot in Colombia.

Las Murallas

You can’t go to Cartagena (Colombia) and not walk on top of the thick walls that were built to protect the town against enemies.  Their construction took over 2 centuries due in part from repeated damage by storms and pirate attacks!!!!

India Catalina

The free city guided tour of Cartagena (Colombia) will end with a visit to the statue of India Catalina. She was an indigenous woman from the Colombian coast, who accompanied Pedro de Heredia and played a role in the Spanish conquest of Colombia, acting as interpreter and intermediary. (Source Wikipedia)

She stands out as both a proud symbol of native culture and a sad reminder of European Colonialism.

Moreover, she’s been idolized for centuries and in 1974 a larger than life statue was commissioned from Eladio Gil Zambrana. The statue depicts India Catalina bare-breasted, wearing a traditional native headdress as she stares off into the sky.

A symbol of the first nation of Cartagena, the image has been adopted by numerous organizations including the Cartagena Film Festival which uses miniature versions of India Catalina as awards for outstanding South American films every year.

Churches

It wouldn’t be a Spanish colonial town without some churches.  Unfortunately, I had to skip the one visit to a church and therefore I don’t remember which one it was, as some street croissant didn’t agree with me and I had to make a run for it to my hostel.  However, by digging around the internet and comparing it with my pictures, I believe it was the Catedral, built in the late 16^th century.

Mercado Bazurto

From the old city, the taxi ride will cost you 10000COP.  Don’t dress nicely, like at all and don’t bring any valuables.  It’s best to go with a local according to our hostel concierge.  Obviously, as I was too nicely dressed, we didn’t go.  I wasn’t about to change since we had other places to visit that day.

DAY TRIPS

There are a couple of day trips you can do from Cartagena (Colombia) but we only did one.

Beach

Playa Blanca on Isla Baru is the hot spot in terms of beaches go. However, it is overly crowded with day-trippers and people trying to sell you stuff.  The restaurants will try to rip you off any way they can.  If you want to enjoy this beautiful beach, it’s best to stay there at least overnight so that you can enjoy it more in the morning and at the end of the day when all the day-trippers have gone.

Bird Sanctuary

I discovered the bird sanctuary while watching my Netflix series (see my Guide to Colombia).  Unfortunately, we didn’t get to go there as it seemed really complicated to get there by your own means and it would have taken up most of our day as it’s located in Baru, 45 minutes from Cartagena (Colombia).  However, they do offer a roundtrip shuttle from Cartagena at the cost of 60000COP per person.

What can you see there?  A wonderful collection of birds from Colombia and Latin America. The birds are exhibited in a representation of their natural habitat, in environments very similar to those from which they originate. I would have loved to check out the Flamingos!

El Totumo Volcano

Don’t get too excited.  Yes, it’s a volcano but a mud one.  What does that mean?  It means you can actually lay inside of it, in the mud which is supposed to have some special properties great for your skin and hair. 

Climb up the 15-meter high anthill-like mini-volcano and then descend the staircase within to sit in the soothing mud bath below. From what I read, because we opted not to go there since it seemed more of a tourist trap than anything else, it’s like sitting in a big puddle of mud.  Don’t put your whole head inside the mud as there’s nothing to clean the mud off your eyes, and your hands are muddy, too!

The volcano is not far from Cartagena (Colombia) and can easily be done in half a day.  However, bring a lot of cash because everything costs extra. If you want your picture taken inside the volcano ($), help getting rinsed off ($), a massage ($).

However, it’s best to book it as part of a tour which will take you to the Pink sea afterward and spare you the hassle of figuring out how to get there.  A tour to the Volcano will cost you at least 45000COP which doesn’t include all the extra stuff you might have to pay.

Pink Sea

The pink Sea of Colombia or also known as El Salar de Galerazamba is located about 1hr away from Cartagena (Colombia) and 15 minutes away from the mud volcano.  This is why you’ll often find both places on the same tour.

It’s created by a natural phenomenon derived from the great concentration of saline in the waters. When the rain falls, the drops of water break the salt granules and create this phenomenon. The sea also has halophilic microalgae that produce beta carotene, creating environments of high salinity and luminosity.

Apparently, the bright pink color is only visible for two months out of the year in February and March when water levels are low causing a high concentration of microbes. During the rest of the year, the water is a rich shade of blue.  Nonetheless, you can go in the water but make sure to wear sandals as the salt crystals can be sharp.

Islas Rosario

Located 100 kilometers off the coast of Cartagena is a collection of Caribbean islands named the Rosario Islands in Colombia.  They are part of a national park and are only accessible by boat through a guided tour.  You will have to pay a port fee of 8000COP per person + the entrance fee to the island which is included in the price of the lodging if you decide to spend the night there.

A small number of the islands are privately owned by hotels who offer accommodation or day trip packages to the islands.  We stayed in Cocoliso Resort and do not recommend you staying there.  The room was nice but they will scam you as much as possible.  A lot of people we met were there for a day trip which price-wise made more sense. 

The price for the open bar all day was of 35000COP.  We ended up paying 300000COP for 2 days! They even added a 10% tip to the bill.  We should have paid at the most 200000COP since we had kept track of most of our drinking including the tip.  In any case, we didn’t feel like complaining and luckily we had enough cash to pay the bill.  No, it was absolutely not an all-inclusive resort.

Off the beaten path

However, if you decide to wander off on your own on the island, take pictures of special markers so that you can find your way back as everything starts to look alike and there are so many different trails. 

It took me 1 hour to get back to the resort and my husband was in full-on panic mode as it was relatively early in the morning (7 am).  I started to get a little scared, especially when this man out of nowhere came out from a bush with a scarface and a machete.  Luckily he said Hola which put me at ease as I was already starting to look like a drunken girl walking along the path not knowing which way to go.  I stumbled upon a resort and asked my way back from there. 

Did I mention that knowing Spanish is essential to your survival in Colombia?