Anne-Charlotte PasseraMedellin is located in the paisa country at the bottom of a luscious green valley in Colombia. It’s the country’s second-largest metropolis after Bogotá and is also known as the city of eternal Spring since the average temperature is in the 20 Celsius or in the 70s Fahrenheit all year long. This alone is one of the reasons why you should absolutely put this bustling city on your Colombian travel itinerary.
A BRIEF HISTORY
The city of Medellin was founded in 1616 by Spanish Jews fleeing the Inquisition in Colombia. The land was separated into haciendas which they farmed themselves. Because of their self-reliance, they became known as hard independent workers. This was really in contrast to the northern part of Colombia where it was more of a slave-based plantation culture.
It wasn’t until the mid 20th century that the city started experiencing rapid growth thanks in part to the railroad and the coffee production which has made the city what it is today. The population of Medellin today is now around 4 million people.
The city runs North and South along the valley, separated by a river which unfortunately has become a dumping ground for people’s trash. It’s a pity really as they could make something out of it with careful planning. On the hillsides, you’ll notice the favelas climbing up the hills only to be stopped by a few remaining trees.
Since the end of the reign of Pablo Escobar, the city has started to overcome the stigma of the drug wars and has become a very accessible travel destination in Colombia.
HOW WE GOT THERE
We flew to Medellin Colombia from Montreal into José Maria Cordova international airport. There are plenty of direct flights from international destinations to pick from. Otherwise, it’s accessible by bus from all parts of the country. However, due to some of the distances, if you want to save time, we suggest taking an internal flight. We used the company Latam airlines which was fine to go to Santa Marta and from Cartagena. When passing security within Colombia, lighters aren’t allowed on the plane.
Getting to the city of Medellin from the airport
José Maria Cordova international airport is located 35km from the city of Medellin in Colombia and the only way of getting to it from the airport is by taxi or by bus.
The fastest route is by taxi but will cost you a minimum of 75000COP.
Another option that is cheaper but longer is the bus. A one-way ticket will cost you 10000COP. The bust will drop you off in 2 locations: San Diego and Exposiciones and takes about 1 hour. At Exposiciones you can hop on the metro where it will cost you 2500COP for a ride.
A word of warning, if you have a tendency of getting car sick, you might want to consider taking a taxi. The road down to the city is extremely windy.
HOW TO TRAVEL AROUND MEDELLIN COLOMBIA
The easiest way of getting around the city of Medellin (Colombia) and the cheapest is by using the metro. Grab a MetroCard at a ticket booth where each ride will cost you 2500COP. Buy a couple in advance so as not to have to wait in line each time.
A fun thing to do is to ride in cable cars. Medellin was the first city in the world to use cable cars as a mean of public transportation. The reason behind this was to give easier access to the people living higher up in the valleys to the city. Therefore, allowing them to be able to have a better chance of finding employment. These cable cars in Medellin are the symbol of progressive infrastructure and transformation of Colombia
WHERE WE STAYED IN MEDELLIN
We stayed in the very lively neighborhood of El Poblado with its own metro stop baring the same name. There is a good 20-minute walk up-hill from the metro stop into the heart of this neighborhood.
It is filled with restaurants, nightclubs, and beautiful boutiques. This area is very colorful and has its own little jungle within the city.
At the epicenter of El Poblado, you’ll find Parque Lleras which comes to life at night. We didn’t hang out there much as we had plenty to see and do closer to where we were. Don’t be surprised, especially in Parque Lleras, if someone whispers ‘cocaina’ in your ear. Play deaf and keep on walking.
No matter where you stay in that area, it will be loud and there will be honking, a lot. I don’t think it’s a great area to stay at if you’re traveling with kids because of that.
The Garden of Blues Hostel
Our first days in Medellin and in Colombia for that matter were spent at The Garden of Blues Hostel. It’s a good 20-minute walk from the metro on a relatively quiet street considering the neighborhood. It’s close to some great restaurants and our favorite bar El Social.
Breakfast was included in our price and changes every day. You can’t get big portions but enough to get you going. It”s served on the outdoor terrace which despite being right in front of the hostel is actually really pleasant.
The staff is friendly and speaks a little English. You can leave your luggage there if you need to go away for some day trips outside Medellin.
We stayed in a shared bedroom of 4 where we had a double bed. It was fine but it was located right above the terrace, so it wasn’t very quiet. Keeping the window shut rather than open won’t change a thing.
La Playa Hostel and Rooftop
Our last night in Colombia was spent at La Playa Hostel and Rooftop in Medellin. Although we didn’t spend much time there since we had to leave for the airport at 3 am we did enjoy it.
We had our own private room on the ground floor with a private bathroom which was great. They have a hammock for lounging in the rec room. The rooftop bar is not very big but friendly and if you’ re lucky you can enjoy sipping on one of their 2 for 1 special while learning how to salsa for free. It’s located on a busy street, so the area is very lively. However, from our room, we didn’t hear anything.
WHERE WE ATE IN EL POBLADO
Are you a foodie? Medellin has transformed itself into a thriving metropolis of Colombia with a vibrant food scene in the last few years. So there are plenty of options to pick from. We are not foodies but we ended up eating out a lot in El Poblado, the area where we were staying. The meals there were wonderful but not particularly Colombian.
Here is a list of restaurants we tasted out and enjoyed without breaking our piggy bank. However, luckily it was only over a few days because we couldn’t have kept eating like that during our entire trip. The average meal per person including drinks and tip: 30$. It’s actually not bad considering that it probably would have been double the price in North America.
El Gato
One of our chauffeurs recommended this place. I had a salmon and avocado sandwich which was really delicious. That’s pretty much all I remember. I mention this place because the interior is pretty hipster and comes with an in-house DJ. Not the best place to have a conversation but one worth going to if you want to feel like you are at the center of it all.
Bonhomia
If you like fresh-cut meet, Bonhomia is the place to go. The outdoor terrace is lovely and lively and on weekends there is a band to add to the summer laid back vibe. A great place to go with friends.
Criminal Taqueria
It might be small but the Mexican food there is delicious and affordable. It’s all outdoors, there isn’t much seating, but you can take it to go. It would be criminal not to try it out. Sorry, I couldn’t help myself.
Bao Bei
I kept the best for last. Who wants to eat Asian food in Colombia? I do. It took us a couple of tries to eat there. Bao Bei is closed for lunch and on Sundays and Mondays. They open at 5 or 6pm. It gets packed really quickly not only due to its popularity but because the space is limited.
The last time we tried and ended up eating there, there was a 1hr wait. We gave our names and went and got a drink at El Social nearby.
We sampled a few of their dishes and they were all excellent. The service was great as well.
Supermarket and Malls
If you need money, you can use the ATM machines located in the mall on Calle 10 not far from the metro stop in El Poblado. There is also a supermarket Exito there for the food.
Otherwise, there is another big supermarket closer to Parque Lleras on Calle 10A and Carerra 43A
Drinks
It’s not uncommon to see drink specials in bars for cocktails, generally 2 for 1 deals or 2 drinks for 15000COP. We stopped by a really empty bar next to our Blues Hostel to make the most of their special. However, here are two worth mentioning.
37 Parks
Although we didn’t stop there, we did pass by it quite a few times and it was always packed. It does seem like a lovely spot for a drink in a garden decorated with hanging lights and stools that make it seem you are having a picnic with friends.
El Social
If there is one bar you should check out while in Medellin this is it. It doesn’t get more local than this.
The vibe is as chill (in El Poblado) as the cerveza Aguila at the outdoor tables of busy El Social’.
That pretty much sums it up.
If you want to grab a table downstairs, you’ll have to get there early, around 4pm-5pm. However, those tables are usually reserved for groups of 4 or more. Don’t worry, there is plenty of room upstairs as well. In fact, there are 3 or 4 levels. The interior is so retro along with the music that you’ll feel like you just took a step back in time. We weren’t there when there was a football game on, but apparently, it’s also THE spot to watch a game.
Should you plan on going on the rooftop terrace, consider bringing sunglasses because, at the end of the day, the sun will be right in your face. Also, do what the locals do and order a bottle of Aguardiente (firewater), an anise-flavored Colombian liqueur. The liqueur is drank as a shot and generally washed down with a beer. It’s strong!!!
ACTIVITIES TO DO IN MEDELLIN COLOMBIA
There is plenty of things to do and see when you travel to Medellin. We barely scratched the surface. However, DO NOT do the Pablo Escobar tour. Colombians are trying to keep that in the past and their kids from idolizing him. By going on the tour, it will keep his flame burning. If you do decide to do the tour, don’t tell any local you did that as they will not take it well.
Botanical Gardens
The botanical gardens are located right outside the metro station Universidad. They represent a secluded slice of Colombia’s natural beauty in the middle of the city. If you are game, you can even picnic among iguanas. The entrance to the park is FREE.
Right next to the Botanical Gardens is Parque Explora, a science museum. We didn’t visit it, but from what I read it’s actually worth a visit, especially if you have kids.
Paragliding
Due to the city’s strong thermal winds, paragliding has become increasingly very popular.
It’s an expensive activity, just like it would be back home. The cost of a 15minute ride with a guide is 130000COP per person. If you’d like photos and a video of your ride it will cost you 40000COP extra. As it’s far from the city center, it’s best to pay for the ride to and from your hostel rather than trying to get there on your own. The cost of a shared ride to San Felix is 100000COP and takes about 1 hour. It’s not necessary to book in advance as you never know off hand what the weather is going to be like. Just book it upon your arrival directly from your hostel, giving you back up days in case the activity gets canceled.
We left at 2pm and didn’t get back until 8pm. The reasons were because we had to wait once we got there for the strong winds to die down and because of their traffic system. In order to decongest the city during rush hour, pending on your car plates, and the day of the week, you aren’t allowed to drive your car during certain times. Therefore, our driver couldn’t drive his car between 6pm and 7pm. We got a beer at the local shack while we waited.
What you need to know
Make sure you wear real shoes for paragliding rather than sandals. You wouldn’t want them to fly off, would you?
Don’t go there if you are hungover. The hike from the parking lot to the base camp can be grueling for someone who stayed out late the night before. It wasn’t us! But we saw first hand what a night into town can do when you go paragliding. He left some pieces on his walk up and somewhere in the air, eurk.
Free City Tour
Although we didn’t do it due to lack of time, everyone we encountered told us that is was really worth it. You get a great overview of the city and see some of the main sites. It’s completely FREE and all you have to do if you want to is leave a tip. Usually, what is recommended is 15000COP. Plan half a day for that.
Comuna 13 Tour
A little background
The Comuna 13 used to be the most violent area in Medellin. In the early 90s, there used to be 17 murders a day. Its population has always been vulnerable due in part to its strategic location. It forms a U in the valley giving it access to the City, and a view from the Pacific to the mountain highway. The violence wasn’t solely due to cartels or street gangs but also paramilitary faction. Everyone wanted a piece of the pie.
It was hard for the government to access the Comuna 13 to end the violence because they could be seen coming a mile away. One fact that you need to know is that there are no main roads that go through the Comuna. When it got established, everyone just started building their cinderblock houses with tin corrugated roofs wherever they wanted, not thinking long term. As a result, no one thought of creating streets.
Talk about a nightmare for the pizza delivery guy!
In order to make it easier for people to find their way around it, they created 3 distinct zones called Independencia 1, 2 and 3.
The tour
Comuna 13 has come a long way since it’s dark days. Although you can’t walk directly into the heart of it, you can still scratch the surface, but with a guide. The walking tour is FREE but a tip of 15000COP is recommended. The guide is a young local, trying to improve the perception of his neighbourhood.
So what is there to see?
- Street art and lots of it. Each mural depicts a story of Comuna 13. Although I would have liked to have seen more, the ones that we saw were beautifully executed and colourful.
- You need to wear comfortable shoes as you’ll be doing a lot of walking for about 3 hours and most often than not, uphill.
- Another important element of the Comuna is its 6 outdoor escalators providing access to over 230 000 people from the upper pars of the Comuna that were formerly isolated. It took 2 years to build and cost 6 million dollars. Medellin is one of the first cities in South America to implement this system.
At the top of the last escalator, you’ll get a special treat of street dancing. It’s another way for the youth to do something positive in their neighbourhood.
In June 2019 alone, 41 000 people came to visit Communa 13.
Fun fact: There are more than 220 football fields in Medellin, 40 of which are located in Comuna 13.
Where does the tour start?
The tour starts at 10 am at Metro San Javier and ends where the main street dies in the Comuna. Look for the yellow or blue shirts of the Zippy Tours. The guides speak both Spanish and English.
Tip: Once your tour is over, grab a bite to eat at Rico Pollo Asado. The cost of the Menu del Dia is 11000COP and is very good.
Cable Car and Parque Arvi
The cable cars are another innovative way Medellin has made it more accessible for people living in the hillside’s shantytowns to get to the city, reducing a 2hr trip down to a few minutes.
We took a ride on them right after our visit to Comuna 13 without changing tickets. In other words, we took a detour to ride on them and went back to the metro to our next stop with just one ticket.
It’s worth doing to get a great view of the city and spot the free outdoor gyms that seem to be everywhere. I guess you can be poor but still be in shape.
However, if you’d like to go all the way up top, which will take you to a sprawling mountain wilderness with hiking trails of Parque Arvi, it will cost you 6000COP each way. Furthermore, you can’t access the park without a guide which will cost you 7000COP.
Plaza Botero
Fernando Botero, a Medellin native, donated more than 1000 pieces of his own art to the Museo di Antioquia. You can catch a preview of them on Plaza Botero (23) for FREE. The style is easily recognizable, and we also saw one in Cartagena!
When asked about his art, Botero replied: ‘I do not see them as fat, but voluminous’.
It’s funny considering that the majority of the women in Medellin have had some kind of plastic surgery.
The plaza is really nice to walk around but very crowded. If you are there with kids, just keep in mind that in the nearby streets there are a lot of hookers and drug addicts. Apparently, the city is planning on ‘cleaning’ that area out, but I’m unsure of what exactly that entails. It is Colombia after all. (from a Colombian doctor I met while in Cartagena)
The Simon Bolivar park was under construction when we were there in July 2019.
The plaza is accessible at the metro station Parque Berrio. This is where you can also catch a bus to the airport.
Casa de la Memoria
Although we did not get to it, if you have time, you should put it on your list.
This museum is in memory of the people who were murdered in the city throughout Colombia’s era of terrorism. It might be difficult for some people to visit it but crucial in understanding the complex history of the city and its comunas.
El Pueblito
If you’d like to see what an old town might look like without having to leave the city, pay a visit to El Pueblito. Pueblito (Little Town) is located on the top of Nutibarra Hill in Medellin. This replica of a typical turn of the century Antioquia town comes complete with its traditional stone fountain in the middle of the town square. This is a fun way to get a bird’s eye view of the city and surrounding mountains and valleys, as well as get away from the bustling city below for an hour or so.
DAY TRIPS
The only accessible day trip that I was aware of and that we did was to the quaint town of Guatapé which you can easily explore by yourself. It’s only a 2hr bus ride away. DISCOVER GUATAPÉ
So there you have it. We really enjoyed our stay in Medellin and wouldn’t mind going back there for some more. Hopefully one day, we’ll be able to travel back to Medellin and explore more of Colombia.
One more thing
Did you know that Colombia is the #2 exporter of fresh flowers after Holland? At the beginning of August, each year in Medellin, there is the Feria de la Flores. It’s an incredible and very popular flower festival across town and worth sticking around for.
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