ONCE UPON A TIME TRAVEL TO … HANOI (VIETNAM)

Hanoi will leave you breathless when you travel there for the first time.  I’m not only talking about pollution but also about walking alongside traffic and hoping not to get run over!

My mother (76) and I spent 2 and a half days in the capital of Vietnam and that was more than enough for us.

However, the charm of the colonial architecture mixed in with the Chinese influence totally makes up for this bustling city’s nuisances.

A BRIEF HISTORY

The city of Hanoi was founded in 1010 and is one of the most ancient capitals in the world.  In 1831, this city is formerly known as Thang Long and then Dong Kinh, and was renamed Ha Noi by the Nguyen dynasty.  The term Ha Noi means between two rivers.

However, from 1802 to 1945 the official capital of Vietnam was transferred to the imperial city of Hué.

During the French colonial period from 1883 to 1945, Hanoi was made the capital of French Indochina and remained the administrative center during the Japanese occupation of the territory from 1940 to 1945.

It wasn’t until after the end of the American War (Vietnam War), when the Socialist Republic of Vietnam was proclaimed, that Hanoi was established as the capital.

HOW TO GET THERE & AROUND

If you travel to Vietnam and start in Hanoi, you’ll most likely arrive there by Air.  The main airport is located about 45 minutes away from the Old Quarter of Hanoi located north of Lake Hoan Kiem.

In order to get from the airport to the city, you can take a bus.  This is the cheapest but a longer option.  However, I’m unsure as to where it drops you off.

We took a private car from the tourism kiosk inside the airport.  The ride cost us. 550 000 VND and took 45 minutes (no traffic).  This is the expensive version, but at least it was less risky doing it that way than hailing a cab outside the airport.  It is unclear outside the airport who is an official cab driver and who isn’t.  Also, we could pay by credit card and didn’t have to withdraw money right away. However, there are ATM machines inside the airport, and they charge a  66 000 VND service fee.

By train

Of course, Hanoi has a train station!  You can easily travel from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh while stopping in Ninh Binh, Hué, Da Nang and Hoi An along the way.

To book your train tickets or find out which route is better (bus, car or train), you can use 12GOASIA to do so.  We used them to book our train and airplane tickets to go to Hué and Ho Chi Minh City.

Getting around

A fun and safer way to get around, aside from a taxi, is by Tuk Tuk.  You need to negotiate beforehand the price and you can usually fit 2 people on it.  This is a very comfortable option and is much safer than walking. What a wonderful way to discover the city, especially if you don’t have a lot of time in Hanoi.

GRAB (the Asian UBER) is very popular in Hanoi as well, and most often than not you can get a GRAB motorbike ride.

WHERE WE SLEPT

There are a lot of accommodations to pick from when you travel to Hanoi.  The question is, where do you want to stay?  If you want to be in the center of it all, the Old Quarter will be the place to stay.  However, if you are looking for some peace and quiet, Bah Dinh district, where most of Hanoi’s historical monuments can be found, is the place to stay at.

We stayed at Hangmy Boutique Hotel, located on the southern tip of the Old Quarter.  Despite really enjoying our stay there, in hindsight, we should have probably stayed in a quieter neighborhood.  This hotel is actually located on a quiet street in the Old Quarter, meaning that there is not too much traffic.  It’s only one street up from silk street and 5 minutes away from Lake Hoan Kiem.  However, the Old Quarter was just too much for us in terms of insane traffic and inexistent sidewalks.

If you’d like to stay at this hotel, you’ll enjoy the staff there, comfortable and clean rooms and a decent breakfast. 

WHERE WE ATE

When walking around the Old Quarter, you’ll notice tons of impromptu restaurants set up on the sidewalks, food vendors, and regular restaurants. Word to the wise, the seating is very low in the impromptu restaurants.  Going to the night market in the Old Quarter will be a foodie experience in itself.

Here are a couple places we enjoyed a meal along with standard seating.

Lantern Restaurant

This restaurant is worth mentioning as it was the first one we ate at.  Located across from the Heritage House, the interior is delightful with tones of lanterns dangling from the ceiling.  We had some spring rolls and Pho soup.  The service is great, friendly, fast and the food is good.  We didn’t know it at the time, but their spring rolls were the best ones we had during our trip through Vietnam.

Cha Ca Thang Long

Cha Ca has been Hanoi’s iconic fish dish for the last 100 years.  The Cha ca dish consists of chunks of grilled fish rendered in oil and turmeric and served with noodles, coriander, spring onions, dill, peanut, and fish sauce.

There is a two-part cooking process where the fish chunks are cooked twice, initially on a bed of hot coals by the cook and again by yourself directly at your table. 

Once the fish is cooking at your table, you add in all the different herbs with it and mix them together.  After that, you take some and mix it in with some noodles, peanuts and fish sauce. Voilà!

Cha Ca Thang Long is a very popular place with the locals and is located a few steps away from the hotel we stayed at.  It’s a set price meal at the cost of 179 000VND per person.  It’s original and really good.

Highlands Café – Flag Tower

Oddly enough, the tuna sandwich made with Banh Mi (Vietnamese version of the French baguette) at this Highlands’s Café was the best one we had throughout Vietnam.  Even though they only had 2 sandwich options when we were there to pick from, it’s actually a nice place to have lunch or grab a coffee.   This is especially true if you spent your entire morning visiting some of the sites in that area and need a break from it all.

Bai Hoi

It’s not a place but a locally brewed beer with no preservatives.  You have to drink it the same day that it is brewed.  Once it is brewed, it is matured for a short period and then a fresh batch is delivered to local bars throughout the city in steel barrels.

This draft beer only contains 4% of alcohol and cost around 12 000VND.

If you are drinking on a budget and want to experience the local culture, go to Bia Hoi junction located at the corner of Nha Hoa and Duong Thanh in the Old Quarter.

This area is conveniently located close to train street which you can check out before heading to Bia Hoi junction.

Also, the Old Quarter has a beer street (Ta Hien) which is one of the most vibrant places for nightlife in Hanoi.

WHAT TO PACK FOR YOU TRAVEL TO HANOI

There is nothing in particular that you need to pack when you travel to Hanoi aside from your essentials.

Good walking shoes and a small backpack with a strap in front will absolutely be useful when you are trying to survive walking through Hanoi’s traffic and to prevent theft.

If you visit some temples, make sure you have something to cover your shoulders and legs with (long dress, shawl).

ACTIVITIES TO DO WHEN YOU TRAVEL TO HANOI

Hanoi is a city rich in history. Just by walking alone in areas such as the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake or Bah Dinh area you can get a sense of how diversified the architecture and the history of Hanoi are.

We found that in a lot of the places that we visited that the entry price was around 40 000VND which is really cheap!  Here are a few places we visited or saw that are worth mentioning.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex (2 hours)

This complex is an important place of pilgrimage for the Vietnamese because it is dedicated to Ho Chi Minh.  Also referred to as Uncle Ho, he played an important role in Vietnam’s recent history as the founder of the communist party and as the key figure of the Viet Cong during the American War.

You can’t wander around the complex as you wish and need to follow a set path.

The Mausoleum

The first stop will be Uncle Ho’s Mausoleum where you’ll see his embalmed body, just like Lenin in Moscow.  No cameras nor bags are allowed inside. You’ll have to hand it over right before the entrance.  Don’t worry, you’ll get it back as soon as you step out from the exit.  Cell phones are allowed but need to be turned off and put inside your pocket (if you have one).

It was really weird to see him.  This was my first case of a very old embalmed body.  There are 4 guards stationed at each corner of his box who look like statues as they don’t move an inch.  They wear their pristine white uniforms with pride.

At the entrance of the mausoleum, there is a changing of the guard which we caught the tail end of around 9 am.  It’s a very ceremonious event, one not to miss if you can. 

You can’t really get too close to the actual building, nor hang out wherever you want.  If you don’t know how to do as you are told and respect the guidelines, you shouldn’t bother going.

Once you are done visiting this part, it doesn’t seem that there is no other way than going forward and paying a 40 000VND service fee to access the rest of the buildings.

Presidential Palace

A beautiful piece of colonial architecture built in 1906 now used for official receptions.  It will be hard not to notice its color, which is actually one that represents communism, which really brings this building to life.  As you will wonder through Hanoi and some parts of Vietnam, you will often see this same color on other buildings.

Unfortunately, this building is closed to the public and you can’t even get near it.  Sadly, you’ll have to admire it from afar.

Uncle Ho’s Stilt House

This traditional house is where Uncle Ho lived on and off between 1958 and 1969.  To be honest, I wouldn’t mind having this house as my country home.  The material and architecture of this house are gorgeous.

You can also walk the grounds around it, check out a small altar, learn about proper etiquette and explore a museum on Ho Chi Minh which we didn’t visit.  After 2 hours of walking around, we had seen enough.

Access

The mausoleum complex is about 10-15 minutes away from the Old Quarter by car.  Our hotel called us a cab and our ride. cost us around 33 000 VND.

You need to arrive before 9 a.m as it gets crowded and is open until 11 a.m (the mausoleum part).  In addition, the mausoleum is closed in September and October as the body of Uncle Ho is flown to Moscow for maintenance.

It isn’t indicated at the entrance, but if you want to avoid being yelled at by the female security guard, this is what you need to know:

• If you have a big backpack, you’ll have to leave it at the main entrance.  You can leave your bottle of water in it but take with you your wallet, papers, camera, and phone.  Therefore, bring a smaller bag to put these belongings inside of it if you don’t have pockets.
• If you have a small backpack you can keep it with you, but you’ll have to dispose of your bottle of water if you have one.  Although you are allowed to keep your small backpack throughout the complex, in order to actually visit the mausoleum, you’ll have to drop off your bag.  Don’t worry, it’s indicated along the path.  You can pick up your bag just outside the Mausoleum exit.

Thang Long Citadel (2 hours)

Built in the 11^th century, the imperial citadel of Thang Long is part of the UNESCO world heritage site since 2010.

Although there isn’t that much to see, it is a nice place to just walk around.  If you are traveling with kids, this could be a nice place to take them to.  There are plenty of grounds for them to just run around, free from city noise.

At the far end, you’ll visit a military bunker that was used during the American War (Vietnam war) as headquarters.  The thickness of the walls is impressive.

Flag Tower (15-30 minutes)

Built in 1812 as an observation post to the Hanoi citadel, it managed to stand tall during the French invasion.  It’s free to get in and you can access it through the Highland café that is located right in front.  Right next to it is the Vietnam Military History Museum which we didn’t visit.  However, you can catch a glimpse from it of the old planes and trucks that were used by both sides during the American War (Vietnam War).

Temple of literature (1h30)

Built in 1070, this temple is one of several temples in Vietnam that is dedicated to Confucius and scholars.

In 1076, Vietnam’s first university, the imperial academy, was established within the temple.

One noticeable feature is the 82 steles of carved blue stone turtles to honor talent.  They depict the names, birthplaces, and achievements of over 1000 exceptional graduates. The stelae were inscribed on UNESCO‘s Memory of the World Register in 2011.

The turtle is something that you’ll come across a lot in Vietnam as it is considered a holy creature and represents longevity and wisdom.

The entry fee is 30 000VND and is inexpensive compared to what you’ll see.  The temple and its grounds are absolutely beautiful and are one of the places we enjoyed visiting the most in Hanoi.

As it gets really crowded, it is best to arrive before 9 a.m or late in the afternoon.

A shared Tuk Tuk from there to North of Lake Hoan Kiem will cost around 100 000VND.

St. Joseph’s Cathedral (30 minutes)

If you want to look at something other than temples, you can check out St. Joseph’s Cathedral located not far from Lake Hoan Kiem (south-west).

Built in the late 19^th century, it is the oldest church in Hanoi.   The architectural style is of Gothic revival and resembles somewhat the one of Notre Dame.

It’s best to look at it in the evening when it is lit up as during the day it’s actually pretty gloomy.

Lake Hoan Kiem (1 hour or more)

Rise and shine at 6:30 am and catch a glimpse of Hanoi’s real city life. 

This was on a Sunday morning, so I don’t know about the rest of the week. You can watch people do Zumba, tai chi, dance, play badminton, run and meditate all around the lake.

There is an island in the middle of the lake that you can visit but you’ll have to pay to access it.

To enjoy the view of the lake, you can grab a drink or a bite to eat at Đình Làng Restaurant.

If you want a cute and trendy place, the Note Café is worth checking out.

Hoa Lo ‘Hilton’ Prison (1h30)

When you travel to Vietnam, especially to Hanoi, there are a lot of places that will talk about the Revolution and the American War (Vietnam War).  This prison, or at least what is left of it is no exception.  If you have the time, this place is worth visiting and a lot more interesting and better done than the Vietnam History Museum (see below).

On display, you will see a guillotine that was used by the French to behead Vietnamese revolutionaries, the women and men’s quarters and the parts of sewers that were used for prisoners to escape.

It was nicknamed Hanoi Hilton during the American War by US prisoners of war.  One of them was Senator John McCain, whose flight suit has been put on display.

The entrance fee is 30 000VND.

To access this prison, you can easily walk there from the Old Quarter along the Hoan Kiem Lake.

Nearby, there is a pedestrian bookstore street that is worth stopping by at.  We found a similar one in Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnam National Museum of History (2 hours)

The Vietnam National Museum of History (Revolution Museum) is divided in two, old and recent history. 

The recent history and revolution part are awful, not well made despite being rich in history.  It is poorly translated in English and French with a lot of misspelled words and bad grammar.  The presentations are poorly presented, not to mention the huge propaganda towards North Vietnam.  The exhibits are mostly pictures with a text:  this is X’s umbrella that he used at Y. Great but who the hell is X?  There is no context, no explanation of the history.

The ancient history wing is better made and presented.  It appears more serious, but also lacks in information context.

To say that the museum is disappointing would be an understatement.  It really is a pity as I personally was looking forward to visiting it and learning a thing or two.

Access

It cost 40 000VND (cash) to visit the two wings and is located next to the opera building which is actually worth checking out.

The museum closes at lunchtime between noon and 1h30 pm.

You can take a tuk-tuk to and from the northern part of Lake Hoan Kiem for around 150 000VND each way for 2 people (shared ride).

If you are hungry, check out Tadioto, located almost across from the museum, and enjoy a bowl of ramen. This colonial bar has a dark and moody interior with plenty of recycled ironwork.  This restaurant turns into a lounge at night.  If you are traveling to Hoi An, they have a restaurant and clothing boutique there as well.

Mosaic Road (as long as you feel like walking)

The Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural is 6.5km long and was part of a project developed to celebrate the millennial anniversary of Hanoi in 2010.  This is the world’s largest mosaic and is part of the Guinness World Records.

The mosaic Road is accessible from the Vietnam National History Museum through the gas station across the street (back end of the Revolution Museum wing).  There are some small stairs that lead you to the highway that you’ll need to cross. Trust me, it’s not as scary as it seems but you need to be patient to cross.

I don’t know exactly where it starts, but it ends at the base of Long Bien Bridge.

Long Bien Bridge (30 minutes)

Built at the end of the 19^th century by the French and designed by Gustave Eiffel or is it Paul Doumer, it was the first steel bridge to be constructed in Hanoi.

The bridge is a symbol of Vietnamese resilience and tenacity partly because throughout the American war it was repeatedly bombarded and then rebuilt.  By the end of the war, the Vietnamese used prisoners of war to rebuild the bridge and the bombing stopped.

If you decide to walk on it, you will feel it shake and some parts look unstable.  It’s a great spot to take pictures if you are up for climbing over the guardrail onto the tracks.  I’m not sure if it’s legal but a lot of people were on the tracks when we there.  However, it does make for a beautiful backdrop. From the bridge, you can also catch a glimpse of the mosaic mural which ends at the bridge.

While we were there, I noticed a bar with a rooftop terrace looking onto the bridge from the Old Quarter side, called Serein Café & Lounge.  It could make for a nice place to enjoy an afternoon drink. 

Train Street (1 hour)

Located between Le Duan and Kham Tien street in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, you’ll find the train street.  It’s supposed to be closed to the public, but we were able to access it.  There is a person guarding the access, but all you have to say is that you are going to a café for a drink and point into the direction you want to go.

It’s not a lie in itself and if you really want to see it, you’ll have to grab a drink.

The train doesn’t come around often, here is a schedule that I found.

• Mon – Friday. 7 pm; 7.45 pm; 8.30 pm; 10 pm.
• Weekend. 6 am; 9 am; 11.20 am; 3.20 pm; 5.30 pm; 6 pm; 7 pm; 7.45 pm; 8.30 pm; 9 pm ; 11 pm.
• I am not sure how exact it is, so you might want to ask at your hotel’s reception desk for a more accurate schedule.

Water Puppet Theater (1 hour)

In case of rain, too much heat or just for something to do in the evening, check out the Water Puppet Theater. As the name suggests, the puppet show takes place on the water.

It’s great entertainment and if you are with kids, it’s a good place to take them to.

As it is popular, I suggest you buy your tickets in advance so that not only you can get the showing you want but the seats as well.

The cost is 200 000VND per person for a seat up front. Furthermore, you can also get an audio guide, but you’ll lose the originality and folk aspect of it.

Heritage House (30 minutes)

Should you want to visit a traditional house, you can do so in the Old Quarter at the cost of 10 000 VND.  The Heritage House is a traditional merchant’s house with rooms set around 2 courtyards.

Conveniently located in front of it is the Lantern Restaurant where we ate the best spring rolls during our trip to Vietnam.

WHAT SOUVENIRS TO BRING HOME

When you travel to Hanoi or anywhere else in Vietnam for that matter, it will be tempting to bring home some souvenirs.

The best things you could bring back from Hanoi are silk dresses or scarves, a tailor-made Vietnamese dress, some hippy pants, and fridge magnets.

A beautiful store worth checking out is TanMy Design, located on silk street in the Old Quarter.

If you are looking for fabrics to bring home, you can go to Dong Xuan Market, north of the Old Quarter.