Anne-Charlotte PasseraVisit the South Coast of Iceland and discover the country’s most iconic sites dressed in their winter coat.
Since winter in Iceland rhymes with less daylight time, you won’t be able to see as much as you would during the Summer. To visit the South Coast during Winter you’ll need to plan extra time in order to be able to see as much as possible.
We come from the land of the ice and snow, From the midnight sun where the hot springs flow.
Immigrant Song by Led Zeppelin
While we were in Iceland over the Winter holidays (December-January), we only had about 5 hours of broad daylight! For more tips on Winter Iceland travel tips, check out our Iceland Guide.
It’s possible to visit part of the South Coast of Iceland in one day during the Winter, but if you can, try to plan for 3 days. That way, you should be able to see all the highlights even if there is a blizzard.
How to get around the South Coast of Iceland in Winter
The best way to get around the South Coast is by renting a car. That way you can just travel according to your own beat.
However, organized tours do exist and you can see what Guide to Iceland has to offer on that front. It does come with a price, but at least you won’t have to worry about driving through a winter storm.
I don’t recommend driving down to the South Coast of Iceland in winter if you celebrated the New Year the night before. That advice also appliesif you are jet lagged or had a short night sleep due to excessive snoring in your dorm room. Big Boss actually competed with another bunkbed roomy in our hostel while we were there. Despite the fact that it’s an easy drive, in Winter you really need to be able to pay attention to the road conditions and the road is long.
Winter driving in Iceland
Please, please, please check on the road conditions before setting out every morning as you might not get lucky and end up in a ditch. We saw two cars and a tourist bus in a ditch on the side of the road when we ventured out to the South Coast. Ya, it was pretty intense.
That is something that we somewhat forgot to do. We ended up having to drive through a blizzard with 130 mph winds right when we were half way to our final destination.
We didn’t stop and had at times no visibility. It was scary as we sometimes thought we were gonna be pushed off the road by the wind.
Since we couldn’t stop, I tried to entertain myself by taking pictures from the car, some of them weren’t too bad. I’m happy to report that we survived without any incident, but those were the 3 longest hours of my life.
Where to eat on the South Coast
One thing you need to know about traveling in Iceland during the holidays is that not all restaurants will be open. This is something that you’ll either need to check ahead of time, possibly make a reservation or just know where to stop.
Also, there aren’t that many places to pick from while driving down the ring road in the South coast area of Iceland.
Skogafoss. By the waterfall, you’ll find the Skogafoss Hotel which has a restaurant. You can eat and admire the view of the waterfall.
I had checked ahead of time to make sure it was open on New Years Day and made a reservation just in case. The place was packed!
The food was good and the place makes for a nice pit stop. Besides, there aren’t many places on the road to stop at, so this is a good option. We had one of many soups on our trip there.
Vik. We stopped at the Icewear Store for a bathroom break and free wifi. They have a decent cafeteria there. Also, it’s close to the black sand beach. Weather permitting, you could possibly walk to the beach from there.
Where to sleep
We stayed overnight in a guesthouse in the hamlet of Hali.
It has its own restaurant which is convenient as there is nothing around. We had dinner there, lamb stew, again! The food was very good though and not too pricy (for Iceland).
It is conveniently located close to the glacier lagoon where we had an activity planned the next morning.
What to see in the Winter on the South Coast of Iceland
The land of Fire and Ice has a lot to offer on the South Coast, especially on the ice part when you travel there during the winter.
Iceland is home to some of the largest glaciers in Europe and the best part is that you can not only walk on them (with a guide) but also go ice caving. This is one of the things that you can only do during Winter in Iceland.
Another reason to visit Iceland during Winter is to spot the northern lights. They are usually visible between October to March. Unfortunately, while we were there, we only spotted a tiny spot very far away. Nothing like what you see in pictures. Also, to be able to actually take a picture of them, you’ll need a good camera to do so.
It’s possible to check this website in order to check on the weather conditions and the chances to spot some northern lights. Otherwise, you can always try to book a tour. If you don’t see some during the tour, they usually take you out another time to give you a second chance.
The best chances to spot the Northern lights are of course outside the city, so you’ll need a car to do that if you don’t want to go on a tour. If you are staying overnight on the South Coast, there are high chances that you’ll be able to spot some. Just ask the locals if you want to go Northern light hunting.
Waterfalls
There are about 10,000 waterfalls or ‘Foss’ in Iceland. Some spectacular ones are located on the South Coast of Iceland and can be seen on a day trip from Reyjkavik, even in winter.
Don’t go chasing waterfalls, Please stick to the rivers and the lakes that you’re used to.
Don’t listen to TLC
There is a good 2-hour drive from Reykjavik before hitting the first waterfall on the Ring Road 1. We hit Seljalandsfoss first.
Seljalandsfoss
This waterfall is 65m high.
During the summer, you can walk behind it but in winter the path is frozen shut. There is another smaller waterfall next to it called Gljúfrabúi but due to the snow and ice, it is inaccessible.
Gljúfrabúi is 40 meters high and partially hidden behind a large cliff which gives it a mystical aura. It can be seen in all its splendor by wading the river into a narrow opening in the cliff or by climbing a steep path up the cliff. Both acts can be hazardous so please exercise extreme caution.
#stuckiniceland.com
I managed to get close to it but the path was extremely icy, running shoes won’t do. For some reason, I ended up on the wrong side of the stream and had to cross over. Thank goodness I didn’t slip or fall as I had invested in some winter hiking shoes which I bought at MEC. It was worth the investment as they have never failed me so far. If you have back problems, I strongly suggest investing in good hiking shoes for your winter trip to Iceland.
You have to pay for parking while you are at the waterfall. Big Boss slept in the car while I explored so we did not pay for parking.
Skogafoss
Skogafoss is supposedly one of the biggest waterfalls in Iceland. It has a width of 15 meters and is 60 meters high.
Due to the amount of spray, the waterfall apparently produces a single or double rainbow which is normally visible on sunny days.
We got lucky and got to see a double rainbow, but no pot of gold in sight though.
You can also walk up the hill next to it to have a view from the top. I had to stop half way up the path because my night was catching up to me and I was completely dehydrated.
There is FREE parking near Skogafoss Hotel and access to the waterfall is FREE as well.
Icelandic horses
While driving along the ring road, you can ‘safely’ stop to admire the scenery and hang out with some Icelandic horses. Please note that you are not supposed to stop on the ring road unless there is an area to do so, so be smart.
We got really lucky with the horses. The fence was wide open so we just walked in (not sure if we were allowed to do so or not). However, we didn’t approach the horses unless they came to us first.
Unless the horses are used for walking tourists around, they spend their winter outdoors. You can see a lot of them on the Ring Road on the South Coast or on the Golden Circle.
The Icelandic horses are a very strong and pure breed of horses. So much so that, should they compete outside of Iceland, they’ll never be allowed back in the country. This is in order to keep the breed pure. So sad.
Glaciers
Solheilmajokull (jokull=glacier) is about a 20-minute drive from Skogar and its waterfall and well worth the stop. There are tour operators that offer ice walking tours on it.
You cannot walk on top of the glacier without a guide, but you can still explore the flat part of it on your own. Parking and access to it are FREE.
Although the flat part is a brownish colour, I guarantee that you are walking on actual ice which in some spots felt a little sticky and not at all slippery. The dark colour is volcanic dirt! Awesome, right?
On our way back to Reykjavik, I was admiring the view from inside the car. I kept noticing the stark contrast between the turquoise of the glacier and the brown from the mountain, wishing I could just get up close and personal.
My wish is my command and we saw a tiny pit stop along the side of the road with actually a gravel road leading from it towards the glacier. Ah ha! Let’s try it! (DO NOT IF YOU ARE PREGNANT).
This was such a bumpy road, full of potholes and gravel. Luckily our car was not injured during this little escapade. The road was so bumpy that we actually saw someone who had given up. He had parked his car on the side, half way there, and walked the rest of the way to the glacier.
However, it was such a pretty view with no tourists around! As we were crunch on time or should I say daylight, which was a recurring theme, we took a few pictures and jetted.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
We set out from our hamlet in Hali, where we spent the night, for Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon to meet our guide for our Ice caving tour. This was great as we were only 20 minutes away from the lagoon. Otherwise, it is about a 2-hour drive from Vik and over 4 hours from Reyjkavik.
We got to the meeting point at 9h30 so we got to take a glimpse of the lagoon (it was still dark out). It was well worth driving through a blizzard for.
After our little excursion, we went back to the lagoon to admire it in a different light. We could spot the seals just chilling in the back. I have to say, there were a lot more than what we saw in San Francisco. However, they were too far back for us to try to get close to them.
The lagoon lies at the bottom of the glacier. Depending on the time of year, there will either be a lot of icebergs floating on the lagoon or none. If you don’t see any during the summer, it’s because they have drifted on to the beach. (see below)
Around 1920, the icebound edge of the glacier nearby started melting into the lagoon. A river soon formed and found its way up to the sea.
When the glacier melts in the summer, blocs of ice end up in the lagoon. Then, they make their way down to the ocean only to be washed up on the beach, the Diamond beach. In the winter, there are fewer blocs of ice in the lagoon and more on the beach. In the summer, it is the opposite.
This place is one of Iceland’s natural crown jewel according to Guide to Iceland and has become one of Iceland’s most popular attraction.
Ice Caving Tour
One thing to do during the Winter in Iceland is to go ice caving.
We booked our tour through Guide to Iceland for 10 am. It lasted about 2h30 and was worth the trip, maybe not the price.
However, we were disappointed by the size of the cave and the number of people in it. I think we would have been better suited had we just taken an ice walking tour.
Nonetheless, our guide was great and the scenery priceless. We did get to walk on top of the Vatnajökull glacier and that was fun. Talk about feeling like you are on top of the world!
Vatnajökull is the largest glacier in Europe and I believe the 4th biggest one in the world. It is quite impressive. You can hike it whenever and wherever, but it’s best to let someone know where you are going just in case. Two germans did not do so back in 2007, it took time to find their base camp and no-one ever saw them again.
Fun fact: 1cm of ice = 30cm of snow.
Beaches
To get to the Diamond Beach you just need to cross the bridge from the lagoon on foot or by car. It is a black sand beach and feels exactly the same as walking on a white sand beach. It is sensational!
This is the nicest black sand beach we have seen so far. There are no big pebbles!
What makes this beach even more special are all the icebergs that have washed up its shores from the lagoon. They do look like diamonds, don’t they?
Personally, I wouldn’t do a round trip from Reykjavik just to see the this beach, especially during Winter. However, if you are in the area, you should absolutely make a pit stop.
Dark sand beach in Vik
We stopped at the black sand beach twice. I guess it just wasn’t in the cards for us.
Our first attempt to go to the black sand beach of Reynisfjara was during the beginning of a blizzard. What were we thinking?
We were hoping the winds would die down close to the beach. Needless to say, that was an epic fail.
We were literally getting swept up everywhere. It was impossible to walk and stay on our feet. My sister-in-law- and I bravely attempted to walk to the beach but we barely made it pass the parking lot. It was pointless and dangerous.
I actually got slammed by the wind into our car and Big Boss acted as a shield to Jacky who bravely was trying to get out of the car.
We eventually made it to the basalt formation (during the second visit), but my phone died (once again). My camera wouldn’t take any pictures because of the darkness or something. It was extremely windy, so much so that we were getting whipped in the face by the pebble sand.
The sand didn’t have the same cushy feeling on our feet as the one on Diamond Beach. It reminded me of the one we saw on Big Island in Hawaii.
So off we went, couldn’t complain, we had seen so many beautiful and amazing things already.
Canyons
On our way back to Reykjavik, we were debating to either visit a canyon or stop in Vik. Since it was going to get dark soon (3pm), it was hard to decide. In Vik, we wanted to try to get to the dark sand beach which we couldn’t really see the day before because of the blizzard.
We opted for the first option.
Fjaðrárgljúfur, is a canyon that is 2km long and runs 100m deep. It can only be viewed from the top. Needless to say, the climb was extremely slippery as it was covered in ice. Very dangerous. Do not attempt it with sneakers!
I think that the beauty of the canyon can be best admired during the summer or at least when there is no ice nor snow.
Keep an eye out on the way back down on the side of the road for the no poop sign. Apparently, it must have been a big concern if they had to put a sign up. Yes, I’m talking about human poop. You just have to love the Icelandic directness and humour in just telling it as it is.
Museum
Our final stop on our Winter day trip to the South Coast of Iceland before heading back to Reykjavik was the Skogar Museum.
It closes at 5 pm during winter but part of it is outdoors. The museum is worth a detour, especially if you have children. You’ll learn a lot about Iceland’s history and way of living.
For once, we didn’t see bus loads of tourists. It was quite an enjoyable visit.
The open air museum consists of buildings representing different periods of Icelandic architectural history.
There is also a folk museum with over 15,000 regional folk craft artifacts.
It’s located between Skogafoss and Solheilmajokull . Should you find yourself in a blizzard, you can wait it out there.
Off the beaten path South Coast of Iceland
We took my godson Ioio with us to go and check out one of the oldest outdoor pools in Iceland called Seljavallalaug while the older crew planned to meet us in Vik. The oldest outdoor pool is located in Fludir on the Golden Circle loop and called The Secret Lagoon.
It’s located right before Skogar and is nestled in a valley. Just watch out for the signs off Route 1 and just go straight until you can’t no more.
Once you park, there is about a 15-minute walk where you have to cross a stream. Since we were visiting during Winter, the stream was somewhat frozen. It made the crossing a bit perilous but we survived, the worse part was the wind.
The pool was built around 1923 for the locals to learn how to swim. As to why they picked this remote location I do not know. It is not a 4 seasons pool and I did not attempt to check out the changing area. It makes for a nice walk in the mountain, an off the beaten path moment. I’m glad we stopped by. However, I wish we could have bathed in it.
You can continue on after the pool into the mountain and possibly find a warm stream to take a dip in. However, during Winter, this might not be such a great idea.
What’s great about this place aside from its originality is that there aren’t a whole lot of people there. It’s one of the few spots on the South Coast of Iceland that doesn’t draw huge crowds.
If you have the time, plan a pit stop there or else, skip it.
Things to remember about winter travel in Iceland
When you travel to the South Coast of Iceland during winter, remember that you won’t have a whole lot of daylight. Sure there is a lot that you could see in a day along the South Coast, but not when you only have 5 hours of daylight. You’ll feel like you are running a marathon if you try to hit all the spots during the 5-hour span.
Since daylight is a luxury, try to eat a really big breakfast before heading out. Eat some snacks on the go during the daylight hours so as not to have to stop at a restaurant to eat . This way, you won’t waste any precious daylight hours to hit your spots. Don’t worry, it starts getting dark around 3:30 pm.
What’s great about traveling to Iceland during the Winter holidays is seeing all the holiday decorations and the South Coast is no exception.
On our way out from Vik, we passed by a church. Once again, the tombstones were all lit up. I don’t know if it’s an all year long thing or they only do that during the holidays. However, it does make it look so pretty. I have to say, they sure know how to be festive during the holiday season in Iceland.
Do you want to know how they celebrate the New Year in Iceland? We tell you all about our spectacular experience HERE.
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