GREEK SNACK BAR IN THE MILE END- DISCOVER PHYLLO BAR MELINA’S, AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT

Eating in a Greek restaurant in Montreal is not necessarily something you think about every day.

Yet, the Mile End neighborhood was mainly Greek in the 60’s before moving to Parc-Extension and even Laval. Did you know that?

That’s why Joanna Chery, owner of the Greek snack bar Phyllo Bar Melina’s chose this neighborhood to settle down almost 10 years ago.

Phyllo Bar Melina’s is an authentic Greek restaurant that is well worth a stop when you are walking the streets of the Mile End on your quest to discover Montreal’s famous murals. With a little luck, you’ll have the opportunity to meet Joanna who will welcome you with a warm smile.

But first of all, before talking about these Greek dishes, let’s talk a little about the story of this mom-entrepreneur.

Joanna Chery – Owner of Phyllo Bar Melina’s

It was with a huge smile that Joanna Chery welcomed me during our lunchtime interview on a gloomy Friday in June.

Joanna Chery is a Greek Chef-Entrepreneur-Mother from Montreal.

Other than having her own Greek snack bar in the Mile End, she is an intermittent participant in the francophone show 5 Chefs Dans Ma Cuisine. There, she offers easy-to-make Greek dishes: like the famous Greek salad.

Otherwise, for English speakers, she co-hosts the show One World Kitchen.

Training

Joanna is not trained as a Chef. It’s a passion that has been ingrained in her since she was very young. She learned everything at home and over the years, she has developed her own style.

Learned by watching and listening to the women in the family.

Interview in the Journal Métro 21-11-17

Raised by her Greek mother from the age of 7, she had to learn to cope in the kitchen. Her little cooking experiments at home were not always successful or good. One day, her older sister said to her: “I can’t wait for this to taste good”, so do I thought Joanna.

But Joanna persevered. She learned by osmosis by watching and participating in meals with the women in her family.

Her mom would put strips of phyllo dough on the table and Joanna learned with it.

On Saturday mornings, after cartoon time had passed, Joanna would change the channel to watch cooking shows on PBS. She would pretend she had her own show. Her little girl dream is not far from her adult reality, so to speak.

Her favorite chefs? Jacques Pépin, Julian Child and Stephen Yan from Wok with Yan. Personally, the only cooking show I watched ages ago was Nigella Lawson’s. As Joanna said so well, Nigella has a velvet voice. Plus, her English garden kitchen has always been a dream of mine.

Entrepreneur and Mom

Raising children is not always easy, especially when you are an entrepreneur in the restaurant business. But Joanna seems to be doing just fine in this respect.

Joanna had never owned or worked in a restaurant before opening her Mile End Greek snack bar.

Because of her passion for the business, she really believed in her project. Giving up was not an option. She took a lot of advice before opening and knew how to surround herself with good people she could trust. This is the key to success.

As a result, she is able to manage her own schedule and maintain a certain family balance.

Finding balance is gaining freedom.

Phyllo Bar Melina’s is open during the day only and has a specific menu. This makes life easier for Joanna, who is expecting her second child very soon.

History of the Greek Feta

You can’t talk about a Greek restaurant without talking about Feta cheese.

Greek Feta became a registered trademark in 2002. Moreover, there is even a World Feta Day in June. Greek Feta is a protected designation, which must be produced in certain regions of Greece where sheep graze, giving a particular aroma to the milk.

Its history dates back to antiquity and mythology.

The mythical history of Feta cheese

Joanna knows her history of Feta cheese and shared some anecdotes to that effect with me.

Milk is considered a sacred food in Greece. Joanna Cherry

Without going into too much detail, here are some stories to share with your kids.

Cyclops – The Godfather of Cheese

According to the Odyssey of Omer, it was the Cyclops Polyphemus who discovered cheese (Feta) by chance. After milking his sheep, he put the milk in a skin bag and realized a few days later that the milk had become hard.

The failed infanticide of Cronos

When Zeus, the God of the Earth, was still in his mother’s womb, his father Cronos wanted to kill him.

His mother, Rhea, went to Crete to protect and hide Zeus. It is a sacred goat, Amalthea, who fed him with her milk. This reminds me of the story of Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome. They had been fed by a she-wolf.

The creation of the Milky Way

Zeus wanted to make his son Heracles immortal because his mother was a human. He, therefore, gave him sacred milk by letting him suckle the breast of his wife, the goddess Hera, without her knowledge. Unhappy when she woke up to see a stranger on her breast, she pushed Heracles away violently and torrential rain of milk was projected into the sky creating the Milky Way.

A good Greek Feta cheese

It’s the milk in the Feta that makes the difference. Greek Feta cheese is made from goat’s and/or sheep’s milk. But a Feta with a mixture of both is best as long as the goat’s milk does not exceed 30%.

For a simple summer recipe using Feta, Joanna suggested one for Our little dishes of July. It’s perfect for a light lunch, a picnic or to accompany a barbecue.

For this, you’ll need to choose softer, milder, and less salty Feta. However, if your dish with Feta is going to the oven, like Spanakopita, you will need harder and drier feta.

Greek Feta in Montreal

I asked Joanna where you can find good Greek Feta in Montreal without breaking the bank. Here are her tips and good addresses.

The best place to find real Feta cheese is in a Greek grocery store in the Parc-Extension area at the corner of St-Roch and Liege. Otherwise, there is Mourelatos which offers Feta cheese for 13,21$ per kilo.

The feta comes in barrels, but you can ask to taste it first.

Then, order the amount you want, but ask that they add brine. This is a liquid mixture of water and salt that preserves the Feta and prevents it from drying out.

Another option. You can find good Greek Feta at Costco for around $20-25 for 1kg. For a smaller quantity, Adonis or Krinos brand feta already packaged is a good substitute.

Greek Feta is very trendy these days, just check out Youtube.

For example, place some Feta cheese in the oven in a foil with peppers, tomatoes, oregano, and olive oil. This will turn it into a cream that you can enjoy with good bread.

Phyllo Bar Melina’s – Mile End Greek Restaurant

Phyllo Bar Melina’s is more of a snack bar than a Greek restaurant. People really go there to put a little delicacy in the belly for a lunch on the go.

Moreover, the place although warm does not lend itself to spend hours there. After 1 hour of sitting on the wooden bench, I had a pain in my butt. Joanna told me it was on purpose. Message well received!

However, there is a small outdoor terrace that does the trick. You can enjoy the Spanakopita, the star of the show, while watching the comings and goings of bearded men with big hats and long black coats. It’s surprising if you’re not from the area.

Melina: but isn’t Joanna the owner?

No, Melina is not the name of Joanna’s mother or her sister. In fact, there is no family connection.

Joanna was inspired by a Greek actress, singer, and activist of the ’60s: Melina Marcouri.

For the record…

In 1967, there was a coup d’état in Greece. Melina Mercouri, nonconformist and not shy to express her opinion on this matter ended up being expelled from her own country and exiled to France. She married Jules Dassin, the father of Joe Dassin.

Melina became an activist during her exile, and once the fascist regime fell in 1974, she became the first woman Minister of Culture and Sports in 1981. She was one of the founding members of the Central Left Party.

So Melina Marcouri was a Greek mythical figure who had a significant impact on Joanna. During her childhood, her mother used to rent videos of Greek movies, including those of Melina.

The Mile End District

Moving to the corner of Bernard and Parc Streets was not a random choice for Joanna.

In the Mile End, formerly the Greek Quarter of Montreal, there are still vestiges of that past. Notably, right next to Phyllo Bar Melina’s is the Rialto Theatre. It used to be a Greek cinema that played, you guessed it, Melina’s movies.

The interior of this Greek snack bar

Joanna wanted her restaurant to be both Greek and modern, just like Melina.

You won’t find cheesy decor with statues and pictures of ancient Greece except for Melina’s in front of the Acropolis.

Both warm and colorful with Greek colors (blue and white), this small restaurant of 375 sq. ft. will quickly welcome you for a pang of small hunger.

Phyllo Bar Melina’s little Greek dishes

Everything is good to eat in Joanna’s restaurant. However, the number 1 seller is the Spanakopita.

Made with phyllo dough, spinach, and feta cheese, this little pastry is delicious and melts in your mouth. Even if your kids aren’t fond of spinach, you’ll barely taste it.

What is phyllo dough?

Phyllo dough is a thin, flaky pastry that must be handled with care. It is made of flour, salt, water, and olive oil. It is then worked with a roller or by hand by stretching or rolling until a translucent sheet as thin as tissue paper is obtained. Then the sheets are layered or folded into a turnover, brushed with butter, and baked.

You’ll also find the classic: Greek salad as well as Mati (eye) cookies, a small lemon shortbread with royal icing.

The eye (Mati) is a symbol that protects you from the evil eyes and jealousy of others. Basically, you eat your protection!

During my visit to Phyllo Bar Melina’s there was a constant flow of customers, regulars, and newbies.

The service is fast so you don’t have to wait forever. Open from 8am to 7pm every day of the week and from 10am to 7pm on weekends, you’ll always find something to eat.

By the way, I hear that the cold coffee with whipped foam is a pure delight.

This restaurant was tested by invitation. However, the words in the text reflect my personal opinion. #mediainvitation