Once Upon a Time in…Rabat

We finished our Moroccan  ‘vacation’ in Rabat, the Capital of Morocco.

I really had a coup de Coeur for this city as it really surprised me.  You always hear about the other cities such as Casa, Marrakech, Fès, Tangier, but Rabat not so much.  The reason behind this? Who knows, but it is absolutely worth going there.

Rabat In a Nutshell

The capital city of Morocco is Rabat, although the largest city is Casablanca with nearly 4 million people. It is home to Mohammed VI, the king of Morocco. It is one of the cleanest and safest cities in Morocco.

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Rabat is one of Morocco’s four imperial cities and is located on the Atlantic coast at the mouth of the Wadi Bou Regreg, opposite the city of Salé.

The four imperial cities are the four capital cities of Morocco which include Rabat, Meknès, Marrakesh, and Fès.

The city of Rabat was founded in the 12th century by ʿAbd al-Muʾmin. Rabat means ‘fortified place’.

Under the French, Rabat was made the administrative capital, and, upon Moroccan independence in 1956, it was designated, together with Salé, an urban prefecture. (source Britannica)

In 2012, the city of Rabat was granted World Heritage Status by UNESCO.

The old town surrounded by ramparts is located close to the coastline. Within its fortifications is the Medina. On the northern part of town, on a cliff above the Bou Regreg, stands the 12th-century fortress of Kasbah les Oudaias, with a splendid Almohad gateway and an Andalusian garden. Close to the southeastern part of the old town is the Tower of Hassān and the foundations of its never-completed mosque. Across from it is the mausoleum of Muḥammad V.

Random Fun Fact: Black Hawk Down was mainly filmed and photographed there in 2001.

Getting There & Around

By train

Located only a 1h train ride away from Casablanca on the Atlantic Ocean, the capital of Morocco is very accessible.  I strongly suggest staying in Rabat if you are planning to explore Casablanca.  It is safer, cleaner, not as noisy and so pretty.  The train is inexpensive with a lot of travel options.  A roundtrip to Casa from Rabat can easily be done. If you are traveling with kids of any age, Rabat is absolutely the better option from Casablanca.

There are two train stations in Rabat and the one you want to get off at that is close to the Medina is Rabat Ville.  Don’t do what we did.  From Tangier, we got off at Rabat Agdal not realizing prior that there were two train stations. So we had to grab a taxi that took us to the wrong hotel. So whether arriving or departing, make sure you have the train station you want.

Rabat is also located 1h30 away from Tangier if you ride the TGV.  An overnight side trip or a weekend getaway to Tangiers from Rabat and vice versa can be done at roughly 20$CAD one way, 1^st class.

The cities of Fèz and Marrakech are a bit further away, 3 hours and 3 ½ hours respectively at a cost of approximately 30$-40$CAD, 1^st class.

By Car

Of course, you could rent a car or use the bus.  However, renting a car in Morocco can be a hassle. Cars are not permitted inside Medinas. Parking can be a struggle.  A car rental is worth looking into if you are planning on going off the beaten path or to remote locations such as Chefchaouen or the desert and if you are there for a while.

By Bus

As for the bus, I haven’t had too much experience there with it but the train to me would be a better option.  You can stretch your legs, enjoy the scenery more and the train stations are gorgeous!  So, if you are just doing the imperial cities, riding the train would be a more suitable, affordable and comfortable option to get around.

Rabat also has a new, modern tram system but petit taxis are a common method of transportation. Their color depends on their city. In Rabat, they are blue.

Where We Slept in Rabat

Originally we only had one night planned in Rabat.  However, since I had messed up our flight reservation (see the article on Casablanca), we spent an extra night there but in a different place.

There are plenty of riads and hotels in and around the Medina to pick from and at a walking distance from the train station Rabat Ville.

Both places we stayed at were in the Medina and not far from each other.  However, the standing was not the same. It was not necessarily by choice. We don’t regret it!

Our First Night – Dar Rehab

Located close to the entrance Bab El Had, just off the main street Avenue Mohammed V (a very popular avenue name in all major cities), this little hotel is clean and well located.  The comfortable rooms are at their minimum with shared washrooms.  For an overnight stay, this can do.  Since we arrived ‘early’ our rooms weren’t ready.

The owner nicely offered us some home-baked cookies and mint tea while we waited.  I wouldn’t go here with a baby though.  The shared washrooms are small which can make washing your baby a little tricky. The terrace hasn’t been furnished but that was the only downside.

Our Second Night – Riad Souika

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This riad is located inside of the Medina not far from our first hotel.  It is in an alley just off the main street (Souika). We were lucky to get a room there as we booked it just a few days prior.

This riad was not as big as the one we went to in Fès but our room and the terrace were gorgeous.  Our room had a mezzanine where Blondie Bear could sleep. We had our own private bathroom and one of the most comfortable bed and linen we encountered during our trip.

Also, it was one of the few places where we weren’t freezing as the linens were warm and snuggly. Yeah, we loved it.  It was a bit pricy for our budget, about 100$CAD a night, but it was worth it. Breakfast is included and is served on the terrace. It is delicious!

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From the rooftop terrace, you get a nice overview of the Medina.  I wouldn’t mind staying there again.  I am glad I messed up our flight reservation or else I would have never experienced this place.

Where we ate in Rabat

We had the best meals in Rabat.  I don’t know if it was just luck or thanks to our guide book.  Either way here are some places worth checking out.

Restaurant de la Libération

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For lunch, we went (three times) to this tiny place on Avenue Mohammed V. This local restaurant is located close to the entrance of the Medina. It is also mentioned in our Lonely Planet guide book. Service is friendly and fast and the prices unbeatable. I really enjoyed the harira soup there.  The last time we went there, Blondie Bear lost a tooth (yep he still hasn’t lost all of them).  That is what he actually remembers from there.  So this place is worth checking out at lunchtime if you want good and inexpensive food with fast service.

Le Petit Beur

We enjoyed our first dinner at Le Petit Beur.  This restaurant is also featured in our Lonely Planet guide book.  This place is located outside the Medina’s ramparts, halfway from the Rabat Ville train station to the Medina on a little street.  The interior is cozy and the food is excellent. 

Of course, as with all traditional Moroccan dishes, we had to wait a while for our food.  Luckily all of us adults had a beer while we waited.  On certain nights they even have live music.  This was one of the more expensive restaurants we did during our trip.

Dar El Medina

Our second night, we went to Dar El Medina, a restaurant inside the Medina recommended by our host from Riad Souika.  It is located in a small alley and you have to ring a doorbell to get in.  It is definitely off the beaten path and well worth exploring.  The indoor terrace is wonderful and the food was extremely good at a very decent price.  Big Boss and Blondie Bear tried to sit on some poufs to eat….epic fail.

Did you know?

Mint tea is one of the important traditions of Morocco and is always served at the end of a meal. However, people just drink it throughout the day. Making it is an art form in itself. Made up of green tea and mint leaves, this tradition, which started in Morocco has spread throughout North Africa and southern Spain.

There is a mint tea proverb which goes as follow: “The first glass is as bitter as life, the second glass is as strong as love, the third glass is as gentle as death”.

Where to grab a drink in Rabat

If you are looking for a happy hour setting, we found the perfect spot on The Dhow.  Yes, I do mean ON as it is a boat stationed on the Bou Regreg river overlooking the city of Salé and the Kasbah les Oudaias. 

It is the perfect spot to drink a 1-liter beer or some mint tea, chow down a banana split and relax.  The prices are the same as you would expect in a North American city.  Kids are welcomed there. Blondie Bear was the only one we saw though. 

The Dhow also has special events like karaoke.  Sadly, we did not get to experience that.  One thing to know about us is that WE LOVE KARAOKE.  Ok at least I do.

Walking along the river by The Dhow is fun as well. There is a mixture of locals going about their day (fishing), tourists hanging around in a café and kids playing on improvised games.

Fun fact. Across the Bou Regreg river, in the town of Salé, alcohol is not served, as in at all. It is a dry city. 

What to Visit

Hassan Tower

I did not get to visit the Hassan Tower. I had to take Jacky to Casa Train station to make sure she got on the right train to the airport.  It turns out that this would be the only time I ever had a problem with the trains in Morocco.  They are always on time.  So while I was stranded and alone in Casa (for 2 hours at 7:30 am), waiting for my train back to Rabat, the boys visited the Hassan Tower.  They thought it was ok.

Hassan Tower was to be the tallest minaret in the world, and the adjoining mosque would have been the largest. This grand project was to be the centerpiece of Rabat and a celebration of Yaqub al-Mansur’ victory over the Spanish Christians. Unfortunately, the Sultan died in 1199, and construction came to an abrupt halt just four years after it began. For some reason, no one took over the project.

Interesting fact. The interior of the 40m high minaret (half the intended height) is ascended by ramps instead of stairs which would have allowed the muezzin to ride a horse to the top of the tower to issue the call to prayer.

The Medina

The main street, Souika, gets very popular on Saturday evenings.  You will be in a human traffic jam.  If traveling with small children, you should avoid that area during that time.  It gets very suffocating and is much worse than rush hour in the subway.  Other than that, it is very easy to walk and enjoyable.  

The Medina’s alleys are clean and shaded with wood beams just like all the other medinas we came across during our trip.  Aside from the three main streets which are very easy to navigate as they make a U shape, there didn’t seem much else to see.  We, unfortunately, did not try to venture outside the main streets as our time was limited and we were tired from all the walking.

The stores mostly sell regular clothing and tourist junk. However,  if you look carefully, you will come upon some more authentic stores.  Make your way towards the river Bou Regreg on Souika Street and then make a left at the crossroads on the Rue des Consuls. This is where you will find more authentic crafts.  This is where we bought our poufs and our second sink, this time in copper or something like it.

Fun tip:  look for invaders with your kids, as there are a some inside the Medina.  I had forgotten about them until Blondie Bear pointed one out.  Spotting invaders in a city, with kids, always makes for a more pleasurable stroll and forces everyone to look up and notice things that you wouldn’t otherwise.  You can easily turn it into a game. 

Traveling abroad anytime soon? Use this link to find out if there are Invaders nearby. Check out the ones we saw in Paris here.

Kasbah les Oudaias

Rabat’s historic citadel occupies the site of the original ribat (fortress-monastery) that gave the city its name. The kasbah is predominately residential, its narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses – most of which were built by Muslim refugees from Spain. (Lonely Planet)

Easily accessible from the Medina on foot, the Kasbah sits on top of a hill overlooking the Atlantic ocean.  I found it to be absolutely gorgeous and totally enjoyed walking through it. 

Upon entering the Kasbah, you will be greeted by a local resident of the kasbah (one among 2,000). In exchange for some dirhams, he will guide you and explain the story behind this Kasbah.  Of course, they don’t tell you offhand that they will make you pay. Nothing is ever free.  Fortunately, I had read about this custom beforehand.  So we just said hello and gently brushed the guide away.  They have a tendency on following you, so make a lot of pit stops to take pictures and ignore them and try to dodge them as fast as you can.  I wouldn’t have minded paying for a guide, but no one else in our group seemed interested.  So that was that.

Upon arriving at the top of the Kasbah on the street that takes you to the Plateforme du Sémaphore (Atlantic ocean viewpoint), make a left.  Get as close to the old entrance as possible.  To your left, there will be this little cosmetic store called Bulles & Huiles, selling everything 20dh.  I got argan oil and argan cream there, and they work wonderfully.  The shop owner is super friendly and a beautiful woman as well (almost as old as my mom!).

Plateforme du Sémaphore

The Plateforme du Sémaphore overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and Salé.  From there you can also spot the top of the Hassan Tower and surfers riding some waves down below with a lighthouse in the background.  I wish we had had a bit more time because I would have loved to have gone down there.  Maybe this beach was clean?

The Andalusian Gardens

The gardens seemed to be quite beautiful from what I saw. My experience was a little spoiled by a street vendor.  One of those ladies that draw on your hands with Henna approached me.  It is really cool, but again, I didn’t want to spend money on that and it looks more like a tourist trap than anything else.  My gang wandered off. She cornered me.

The conversation went somewhere along these lines:

Me: No. No thank you.  I’m not interested.  She: yes, look (grabs my hand). Me: No, not interested, no money.  She: that is alright (starts to draw a little), see? Me: yes (I try to remove my hand). She: (holds on to my hand) See, look, nice? Me: Yes, but no money stop….

So on and on it went until she finally finished my hand.  Afterward, she wanted to know whom I was traveling with; probably to see if they would pay for it.  So I lied and told her I was with my old mom and my kids.  I had to go and try to find one of my kids before running into Big Boss so that they could tell him to ignore me in the gardens or else a lady would make him pay for my unwanted henna hand. Lol

It was actually funny but she kept following me around the gardens.  We finally got rid of her (she is still alive) somewhere in the Kasbah.

Salé

Rabat is located at the mouth of the river Bou Regreg, separating it from the city of Salé.

An easy and fun way to get from Rabat to Salé is to hire a boat and cross the Bou Regreg river on it and it cost about 2.50dh each, one way. The crossing takes just a few minutes and you get a beautiful view of the Kasbah from the water.

The city itself is uneventful. The crossing made it fun and picture taking wise it is worth it. We tried to check out the Medersa Abou al-Hassan. However, their pricing had gone up. The entrance fee was 8 times more than before. I think they just didn’t want us to go in.

The Royal Palace

The royal palace is located close to Rabat Ville train station. There are multiple entrances. Unless you work there, you will need to go to a selected gate and present your passport (just ask around for the right gate). Do not forget it!

The grounds are huge! From the gate, you will need to walk a bit to get close to the Royal Palace. You won’t see much but the guards will allow you to take a picture of them from afar. Across from the Palace is also a mosque.

If you have time to spare during your trip to Rabat, it is a nice place to go to and is FREE.

Rabat – Special Tips

Weather

We were there at the beginning of January. The weather felt like early fall in North America. It can get very cold at night, so bring a sweater and a light fall jacket. During the day it feels warm if the sun is out. You can possibly get away with just a t-shirt but most likely not with shorts.

Wardrobe

Leave your daisy duke shorts at home and your cleavage inside the shirt. You can still be your fashionable self without having to expose all of your body parts. There is no need to draw unnecessary attention to yourself. I wore once a tank top with a shawl and just with that I got some looks.

Even though Morocco is a modern country , it is predominantly Muslim. Just be thankful that you don’t have to be forced to wear a djellaba!

Language

Although it lies on the northernmost part of Africa, Morocco is a country pulled in three cultural directions: African, European and Middle Eastern. Like many nations in this vast continent, the heritage of its colonial past persists, with French being the second-most spoken language, although Arabic-Berber is the largest ethnic group.

The official languages of Morocco are Berber and Arabic. The distinctive group of Moroccan Arabic dialects are collectively called Darija. French and to a lesser extent Spanish and English are also spoken in the country.

Shopping

When shopping in Rabat, it’s easy to bargain your way down to a lower price rather than pretending to walk away and leave the deal. If you can, research what kind of artifacts you would like to bring home or at least know what you would be willing to pay.

Always ask for the price. You can probably get the product at half the price given by the seller.

We bought our poufs, a sink and some ceramics there. Rabat has a bit of everything, just like Fez.

What do you think?

Leave us a comment below and tell us about your trip to Rabat.