ONCE UPON A TIME TRAVEL TO CHEFCHAOUEN

Travel to Chefchaouen in Morocco as part of a romantic getaway or to get away from the bustling cities of Tangiers, Fès or Casablanca.

Nestled in the Rif Mountains of Northern Morocco lies the city of Chefchaouen. It is also referred to worldwide as The Blue Pearl or Blue City. It’s an artsy place with whitewashed mountain homes making you feel as if you are in your own world.

I discovered this gem by sheer luck on Instagram, before I bought my guide book on Morocco, which actually features this city on its cover. So I had to review our itinerary accordingly so that we could check it out.

A brief history of Chefchaouen

When you travel to Chefchaouen, take a good look at its placement between two tall mountains peaks. This is where Chefchaouen takes the root of its name. “Chef” is a derivation of the Arabic word “to look” and “Chaouen” means “antlers” or “horns.”

Between the two protective horns of the looming Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen has long been a strategic mountain town. It has a storied history that began shortly after the Portuguese conquest of Morocco in 1471 AD. A local tribal leader, known as Abu Youma, needed a protected, secret location from where he could launch attacks against the Portuguese. Abu Youma died in one of the battles and his cousin, Ali Ben Rachid, took over custodianship of the nascent city.

The city was built in 1471. This was right before the Catholic King and Queen of Spain managed to reconquer the last Muslim territory in 1492. The year is infamous for the explorations to the Americas but it also marked the expelling of Muslims and Jews from Spain.

Immigration

Right at the end of the 15th century, Ali Ben Rachid began moving his family and friends from Granada (in modern-day Spain) into Chaouen. An established route was established by the middle of the 16th century for those seeking refuge from the Spanish Inquisition. This new immigration greatly increased the size of the city. The refugees brought with them their knowledge of art and architecture, as they did in larger cities such as Fès and Marrakech. All of this had an influence on the look of the city. However, it wasn’t until the Sultan commanded the creation of the mellah (Jewish neighborhood) in 1760 AD that the special light blue, now associated with the old city of Chefchaouen, came to be used.

Getting to Chefchaouen

There are a few options to travel to this hidden gem that is Chefchaouen. The walls form the original boundaries of the city. Arriving at Chefchaouen is one of the most special experiences in Morocco. You are able to approach the town from a viewpoint across the valley and witness the blue walls shining against its mountain home.

By Bus

You can either take a bus from Fès or from Tangier to travel to Chefchaouen, but it will take longer than in a private car. Be sure to check for the return schedule and to buy your ticket in advance for your return. The bus from Tangier will make a stop in Tetouan and it takes about 3 hours.

There are no trains to get there.

By Car

We actually rented a car with Hertz to get there from Tangier. It’s roughly a 1h30-2h car ride if you go straight there. It is fairly easy to drive in Morocco when you are outside a city. However, just make sure you respect the speed limit because the police are everywhere. We highly recommend spending a night there. However, if you are crunch with time, a day trip from Tangier can easily be done.

As you start your climb towards the city, the roads are very windy. Bringing some motion sickness bags, just in case, might save you a lot of trouble (tip: grab some on the plane). We were able to pull over just in time, as it was Jacky’s turn to get sick in the car. Getting car sick is a family affair. If you read our post on San Francisco, you’ll see that it’s a family affair.

Our San Francisco trip

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If you have time to spare in Morocco, you can go from Marrakech to Chefchaouen either through the Middle Atlas mountains or by visiting the desert and Fès along the way. Fès is about a 3h30 car ride away from Chefchaouen.

About Chefchaouen

The Blue Pearl is definitely a highlight for any Moroccan holiday. This sacred city remains mostly untouched and fairly isolated. Unfortunately for the locals, a recent boom in tourism has changed that.

Unlike Marrakesh or Fès, peace and quiet can still be enjoyed in the Blue City as it is not completely mobbed with tourists (at least not yet). The town does experience a small stream of mostly European visitors, especially in the summer months. The 200-plus pensions attest to this, as do the ubiquitous marketplaces where local artisans make handcrafted souvenirs to generate income.

Some notable mosques in Chefchaouen include the Place Uta Hammam, arguably the city’s center of Islam. Set outside the city and allegedly damaged during the Spanish occupation you will find another famous mosque Jemaa Bouzafar. It is small, yet charming. It’s twisty, decaying stairs are still climbable for a spectacular view of the hills and famous architecture of Chefchaouen. A lush green kasbah rests in the garden of the old city and contains the remnants of an old prison.

Also, as you’ll discover when you travel to Chefchaouen, it is a holy city. You won’t find any alcohol on offer there, so be sure to plan ahead.

The Name Says It All

Well, if you speak Amazigh/Berber it does. The words “Che chaouen” actually mean horns because the shape the hills make above the Medina look like two horns.

Also, keep in mind culturally, while everyone speaks Moroccan Arabic, you’ll hear a lot more Tamazight as its a traditional Amazigh enclave.

Mysterious Blue Origins

There are a few interesting theories to the reason behind why the buildings are painted in that vibrant blue.

Some people say it keeps mosquitos away. In the South of France, people paint their shutters blue as well to keep the mosquitoes away. In any case, it looks very pretty.

Why so blue?

One theory I read comes from the fact that a large amount of the original inhabitants were Jews.  Painting in that colour came from the belief that by dying thread with tekhelel (a natural blue dye) and weaving it into prayer shawls, people would be reminded of God’s power. So from the practice of using the dye for weaving, it transitioned into the painting and repainting of the walls that lives on today.

In the 1930s, the Sephardic Jewish refugee population took their brushes and went to work coloring the walls of their houses with talcum-based blue paint. The prevailing theory is that they were aiming to create a visceral reminder of God’s power, similar to the way the Jewish refugees in the ancient Israeli city of Safed did to their homes. While the Jewish population in Chefchaouen has been slowly supplanted by a Muslim one, their influence on the design of the city remains.

Home and business owners in the Medina maintain the blue-wash on the lower halves of their buildings regularly. Every Spring, white and blue paint are swirled together by the locals. Whether it’s for tourism’s sake or to maintain a testament to a holy past, it preserves the living dreamscape.

Off the beaten path travel to Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is the largest town in Morocco’s Rif region and is an excellent place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Morocco’s imperial cities. This place is most enjoyed in an unhurried day or two as it is one of the most chill, laid back towns in all of Morocco. Simply referred to as “Chaouen” by the locals, it’s located in the northern part of Morocco. Chaouen is known for its picturesque Medina, easy access to the mountains and for the abundance of kif.

Long famous on the backpacker trek, this small mountain town is now really blossoming into its own as a travel destination. Chaouen is far enough off the beaten track to dissuade most tourists, which makes it quiet enough for those visitors brave enough to venture to the edge of the Rif Mountains. The narrow, Chaouen-blue pedestrian streets give ways to wide squares and breathtaking views over the lush valley below.

If you are looking for a more authentic Moroccan experience, Chefchaouen is the place to travel to. Nature lovers will enjoy the easily accessible day hikes into the mountains. Shoppers will enjoy the hassle-free boutique shops for everything from hand-spun pottery to artisanal soaps made right inside the city.

If you go deep into the Rif Mountains, a very traditional lifestyle can be witnessed. You will find a style of dress that is unique to this area which features a lot of red and white in the blanketed part of the dress. You will also see colorful, pom-pom laden straw hats that come originally from this area.

What is ‘KIF’?

The “Amsterdam of Morocco”

Long time considered the ‘ Amsterdam of Morocco’, this is the reason why it has been so popular among backpackers. Most tourist websites and guidebooks either caution or encourage the consumption of a certain green herb that covers the hills outside Chefchaouen, the area’s largest exporter of it. The locals call it kif. You might know it as ganja, dope, or pot. Armed men guard the slopes (we didn’t see any), and vendors can get pushy to the point of dangerous towards tourists (not our experience). Don’t be surprised to hear ‘hashish hashish’ while a person walks by you while you are strolling around the Medina streets (our experience).

Note: While smoking hashish and marijuana may be common in this town, it’s illegal in Morocco.

The Locals

The people of Chefchaouen are, for the most part, really pleasant. Foreigners can stroll through the blue-walled Medina without being harassed by touts and vendors too much. Most of the shop keepers have a relaxed attitude and will not hassle you. However, keep in mind when taking pictures, some people do not want to be in them. Also, in most cases, you will actually be on someone’s doorstep, be respectful. When in doubt, ask for permission, this is not a zoo. Well, we did encounter some actual animals along the way.

Children play in the streets and, unlike Fès, they will generally not ask you for money. If anything, the children of Chefchaouen might ask you to play with them, which is not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

Where to eat

We had dinner at Al-Kasbah, a local restaurant just off the main square. The service was a bit long, but anytime you order couscous or tagines, it takes time. The food was good, the interior was cozy and so were the prices.

While we were waiting, I wandered off a bit and discovered this amazing store. If you want to bring souvenirs for your friends and family without taking too much space in your luggage, this is the place. You can get soaps, creams, these things to rub your feet… They work great. Soaps in delicious combinations — such as chocolate, thyme, and lemon — are on offer here as well as fresh cumin, fragrant saffron, and other spices from Morocco. Also, this is the only place in Morocco where I found Berbere baskets. They are so cute. There might be some in Marrakech, but we didn’t go there on this trip and I don’t recall seeing any when I went there 15 years ago.

You can also order breakfast at one of the cafés on Plaza Uta el-Hammam. Affordable and good, the one we stopped at had some of the best mint tea we had, aside from the one in Fès. There are plenty of options to pick from breakfast wise. Unfortunately, I did not write down the name of the one we stopped at.

Local delicacies

Bessara is a traditional split pea soup. It is quite popular in the Blue City. If you would like to learn how to make it, click here. This can be a fun activity to bring back home and try out with your kids.

Tagine is another extremely popular meal in Morocco is. It is stew made with fish or meat, vegetables and couscous infused with spices.

You can also try grilled meats and mint tea. Mint tea is consumed all day long all over Morocco, either casually or ceremonially. We brought back tea and a teapot to try to make it at home. Turns out, the mint in North America is not the same as in Morocco. The taste is definitely not the same.

The Medina & around

The number one thing to do on our list when you travel to Chefchaouen is the Medina.  The Medina is the old part of town of the city.  There is a heavy Andalucian influence in the architecture of the Medina with red-tiled roofs littering the valley and bright blue buildings winking at you with every turn.  The lanes are narrow making walking the best way to get around the streets.  Since the Medina is one of the smaller ones in Morocco, you will supposedly never feel lost. At least that is what we had read.

Unlike Marrakech or Tangier and Rabat, foreigners haven’t been able to purchase old houses and convert them to upscale riads. Therefore, many of the local populace still actually lives in the Medina.

Getting Around

We parked our car outside the Medina. When we entered it, we were completely lost. I had lost all sense of direction. We had no idea how to navigate, where we were geographically speaking and where our Airbnb rental was. Our host had to pick us up. We handed our phone to a local who spoke to our host explaining to him where we were. Turns out we were nowhere near our rental! Somehow, we love lugging our backpacks and luggage on long walks. Luckily, we decided to leave our sink bought in Fès in the car. I am happy to report it did not get stolen.

Chefchaouen boasts one of the most enjoyable, funky Medinas in all of Morocco. Though walking up and down the hillside can make for some sore legs at the end of the day, luckily there are plenty of cafés to plop down at and recharge.

Our Jacky found it hard to walk around, as she was fighting off a cold she got from Fès and from recent surgery.

If you are traveling with someone of ‘old age’, take their health into consideration while planning your visit. Also, if traveling with kids, a stroller might not be very useful, instead use a baby wrap or baby carrier. This little bit of wisdom can be applied throughout Morocco’s Medinas.

Plaza Uta El- Hammam

In the heart of the Medina is Plaza Uta El- Hammam, lined with cafes and restaurants. This is a very touristy area.  You can watch the world go by as you sit eating traditional dishes of Morocco. Many visitors spend the evening in the square watching others walk by relaxing after a day of sightseeing.

The Kasbah and Grande Mosque dominate the plaza. The Mosque is well known for its octagonal-shaped tower.  History of the Mosque dates it to the 15th century.  Built by the son of the town’s founder, Ali Ben Rachid, Muslim visitors can go inside, but non-Muslims are not permitted. All the same, it is worthy of visiting the area to see the structure from the outside. The architecture is something you will not forget.  

While in the square you will have a chance to see the Kasbah. The town’s walled fortress restored in the 17th century. It hosts one of the most beautiful gardens in Chefchaouen and Morocco.  

We did not visit the Kasbah as you have to pay, but I managed to take a glimpse inside and took a picture of the beautiful garden.

Ras El-Maa

We passed by Ras El-Maa on our way down from visiting the Spanish Mosque.

Outside of the medina walls, to the east, you will find “Ras el Maa” (or “Head of the Water”) which is a small waterfall. This is a local cooling-off place. Villagers and tourists alike gather here during the hot months to cool off and, oftentimes, to do laundry. There is a small café nearby to relax with a coffee or tea, which seemed like a pleasant spot but it was closed when we walked by it early in the morning. This must be a very nice place to go to, particularly in the hot summer months.

The Spanish Mosque

Located outside the Medina on a hilltop, you can easily spot it. Supposedly a 15-minute walk from the town center, it took us way longer to get there. This was not only because we stopped to take pictures. We somehow took a wrong turn and ended up passing alongside the Muslim cemetery on the hillside. Nonetheless, it is worth the effort to get an amazing view of the city. We went there early morning and it was stunning. The mosque in itself is of little importance architecturally.

Doorways

This might seem an odd thing to say, but believe me when I say that you will fall in love with the doors here. During our trip to Morocco, I took a lot of pictures of entryways. However, most of them were taken during our time travel to Chefchaouen, that I am sure.

If you are an amateur photographer, you will love it here. This city has some of the most amazing natural backdrops. Photography heaven!

Our opinion about Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is unlike other cities in Morocco to visit.  Casablanca is a city for a quick stop, while Rabat is an economic center. Chefchaouen is the relaxation capital, a place to chillax and unwind. This should absolutely be on your itinerary.

Whether you spend a couple of days wandering the clean Medina streets, enjoying a hike through the Rif Mountains, or just want to relax with a book and a fresh mint tea, like most visitors who travel to Chefchaouen, you will walk away having experienced something magical.

We would love to hear about your travel experience to Chefchaouen if you’ve been there. If you haven’t, has this article inspired you to book your ticket or add it to your list of places to explore in Morocco?

Let us know in the comments below. We would love to know.