Once Upon a Time Travel to … Ninh Binh (Vietnam)

Ninh Binh, a place located only 2 hours away from Hanoi and referred to as the Ha Long Bay on land showcases everything that Vietnam has to offer during your travel there.

From idyll floating paddy fields to stunning limestone cliffs or karst formations (honestly, I don’t know what the difference is) to caves and hidden sacred temples, Ninh Binh remains a relatively hidden travel gem in Vietnam, but for how long?

A BRIEF HISTORY

The town of Ninh Binh is located in the province of Ninh Binh.  I now dare you to say Ninh Binh, Ninh Binh 10 times in a row.

The ancient capital of Vietnam, Hoa Lu, was strategically located in this province in the 10^th and 11^th centuries.  Although it was only the capital of Vietnam for 42 years before the honor was given to Hanoi, it holds the history of Vietnam and the three dynasties of Dinh, Early Le, and Ly.

In 2014, the UNESCO recognized the Trang An Landscape Complex in Ninh Binh province as a World Heritage Site.

Fun Fact:

The movie, Kong: Skull Island, was filmed in that region. Some of the places that were used for filming were Trang An, Tam Coc, and Van Long Nature Reserve.

In order to travel to Ninh Binh in Vietnam, here are a couple of things that you ought to know in order to enjoy your time there.

HOW TO GET THERE & AROUND

Located less than 100 km from Hanoi, you can easily travel to Ninh Binh is easily accessible on your own by bus or by train.  It will take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours to get there.  However, once you get to Ninh Binh City you will have to grab a taxi to take you where you need to go to check out the main sites.

If you are planning on spending a night or two in Ninh Binh (Province), which is something we recommend doing, here is another option worth exploring.

By Private Car

We rented a private car with chauffeur from Hanoi to Ninh Binh with 2 stops along the way through DAYTRIP.  The cost was 92 euros for two people including all of our luggage.  It does sound expensive at first but honestly, it was worth it.  We could have gone directly from our hotel in Hanoi to the one in Ninh Binh with them for 49 euros, but then we would have wasted our sight-seeing time. 

What is great about this company is that you decide what your schedule is.  Therefore, you can leave at the time you want and stop at different sites along the way to visit for how long you want.  The drivers speak English, you can have conversations with them, and they are always on time.  The cars are super comfortable, clean with leather seating and bottled water is provided.  The only thing that you need to know is that it’s only a one-way trip. 

In other words, this was a great travel option to get to Ninh Binh for me because I was visiting Vietnam with my 76-year-old mom at the time.  Therefore, her comfort was important to me but not only that, we didn’t necessarily want to have to carry our luggage around either and figure out how to get from Ninh Binh city to our hotel located 20 minutes away from it.

By Train

To leave Ninh Binh to go to our next stop which was the imperial city of Hué, we took the train.  We booked our tickets through 12GOASIA which is really practical when you are trip planning in Asia.  It will give you all the different options on how to get from Point A to Point B anywhere in Asia along with the cost.

We took a sleeper train in a first-class 4 person cabin with Lanam Express.  The train ride from Ninh Binh to Hué is about 11 hours and will cost you $200CAD for 2 people in first class.  The cabins are really comfortable and snacks, drinks, and FREE Wi-Fi are provided.

In addition, it’s possible to leave your luggage at the train station of Ninh Binh but you’ll have to leave it inside the convenience store in the train station in plain sight. However, it’s only 20 000VND per luggage.

Getting Around

Depending on where you are staying in Ninh Binh province, you can easily walk around the countryside, rent bikes or motorbikes or grab a taxi which your hotel can arrange.  We used the later, as I said, I was traveling with my mother.

WHERE WE SLEPT

If you travel to Ninh Binh province, we recommend you spend at least one night there in order to really take in the beauty of the countryside with its limestone cliffs, rice paddies, and hidden temples. Ninh Binh province is worth taking the time to explore.

However, it can get a little complicated in understanding where to stay in relation to what you would like to do.

Mua Caves Lodge

We spent two nights at the Mua Caves Lodge which is very practical if you are traveling with kids or your elderly mother.  This hotel is located at the base of one of the sites to visit in Ninh Binh province, the Mua Caves.  The entrance to the site is 100 000VND but free if you are staying at the lodge.

As visitors have to go through the hotel’s grounds to access the caves and lookout, there are plenty of things to do there to have a pleasant time.  On the grounds, you will find a fishpond, a waterfall, a lotus field, a pool, a bar, a playground, swings etc…and plenty of photo-ops.  The best part though is that you can have early or late access to the viewpoint after the majority of the visitors are gone or before they arrive for the day.

The rooms are a bit tight but comfortable and the outdoor tub and shower are awesome!  However, I don’t know if it was because of either the time of year or because of the coronavirus pandemic, but the breakfast option was very scarce. The cost of a room is around $50 per night for 2 people.

A taxi from Mua Caves Lodge to Ninh Binh train station is around 150 000VND.

WHERE WE ATE

Food-wise, I have nothing interesting worth mentioning.  We either had dinner at the Mua Caves Lodge where we were staying at which was just fine or at one of the restaurants close to the entrance of the Mua Caves where the food was good and decently priced.

If you want more dining options, you should check out the restaurants in Tam Coc located about 20 minutes from the Mua Caves.  However, we did have lunch there at Linh Chi Family Bar and Restaurant, a touristy place, close to where you can hop on a boat and this is where I got food poisoning. The service was good, prices decent, but somehow the nems and oily noodles just didn’t agree with me.

CAN YOU GO THERE WITH KIDS?

When you travel to Vietnam, Ninh Binh is the perfect spot to bring kids along.  They will enjoy the boat rides, exploring caves, riding bicycles amidst rice paddies and climbing up stone pathways.

Bringing a stroller there will be pointless and it’s best to just make them walk or use a baby carrier.  Why pointless? Because you’ll either be on a boat, walking on uneven walkways or going up steps, loads of them.

Otherwise, there are plenty of lodging and food options around Ninh Binh City to meet your needs.  If you are traveling with diaper age kids, make sure to bring enough or as a better option bring cloth diapers with you, that way you never run out. 

WHAT TO SEE WHEN YOU TRAVEL TO NINH BINH

Ninh Binh is nicknamed the Ha Long Bay on land as apparently it looks like the Ha Long Bay but not on the water.  That’s actually funny because a lot of activities you can do in Ninh Binh province is by boat, hence on water.

Although we were only there for 2 days, we did manage to see a few things. However, aside from the list below, there are plenty of other things you can do such as going to Van Long Nature Reserve or Cuc Phung National Park for example. Did you know that the Cuc Phung Park was the starting point of the Ho Chi Minh trail during the American / Vietnam War.

Perfume Pagoda (3 to 5 hours)

We went to the Perfume Pagoda on our way down from Hanoi to Ninh Binh by private car with DAYTRIP.

The Perfume Pagoda is a sacred site with Buddhist temples built into limestone cliffs dating back possibly to the 15^th century.  This place attracts pilgrims and tourists all year long.

Access

In order to access the main sites, you’ll have to take a rowboat which takes 1 hour each way.  At the time that my mom and I traveled there, foreigners had to take separate boats.  Therefore, you’ll have to pay for the full boat (6 people) regardless if you are 2 or 6. 

The entrance fee to the Perfume Pagoda is 80 000VND per person + 50 000VND per seat on the boat.  You can only pay by cash.

Friends of the rowers might come up to you on the way back to tell you to tip the rower. DON’T TIP.  I got confirmation from locals that there is no tipping in Vietnam and that is a scam that they do on foreigners because in countries such as the US or Canada they tip.  Besides, when you paid for a full boat and were only 2, I think you’ve already paid your fair share.  Are you wondering why the rower’s buddies are asking for the tip?  That’s because the rower is not supposed to ask for the tip!

Once you arrive at the main pagoda there are cable cars that can take you up the mountain.  We did not see them, nor could we find them.  As we only had 1 hour there (not including the round-trip boat ride) it wasn’t too big of a deal.  However, the whole cable car system was very unclear, and we only saw a ticket counter on our way back down from the pagoda.  The woman working there didn’t seem to speak any English and the same goes for the boat and entrance counter.  So, if you have any questions to ask, good luck in getting answers.

Our experience

The boat ride is really fun and pleasant but bring a sweater so that you can sit on it on the boat for extra comfort.  Don’t be surprised to see ‘boat vendors’ on the river selling drinks and food and possibly having their own little karaoke break on the river.

At the bottom of the pagoda, there are tons of restaurants to choose from and gift stores.  Don’t buy any souvenirs there as it is a tourist trap for foreigners and locals alike.

The hike up to the pagoda is relatively easy with not too many steps.  Therefore, it is doable, but we wouldn’t have been able to go anywhere else with my 76-year-old mom.

It’s unfortunate that we didn’t see anything else and should I go there again, I would plan for more than 3 hours there.

Make sure to wear comfortable and non-slippery shoes, especially if it has recently rained.

Trang An (3.5 hours)

Part of the UNESCO World Heritage site since 2014, Trang An is a scenic complex with boat cave tours that will allow you to explore hidden temples and go through water caves.  When you travel to Ninh Binh, Trang An should absolutely be at the top of your activity list. This was an awesome, gorgeous and peaceful experience.  Aside from a few other boats quietly floating on the river, you will be with 1 with nature. 

Access

We went to Trang An as a scheduled stop with our private chauffeur from DAYTRIP from Hanoi (see information above).  Otherwise, you can easily go there by bicycle, motorbike or taxi.  It’s not far from the Mua Caves, so you could do both in one day.  If you are coming directly from Ninh Binh, it’s about 7km away from the city.

In addition, the cost per person is 250 000VND and you can pay by credit card if you want to. Otherwise, there is an ATM machine just across from the entrance which is convenient since you’ll be paying a lot in cash in Ninh Binh.

The boat trip lasts between 2 and a half hours and 3 hours but you need to wait until your boat is somewhat full to leave.  There are 3 routes you can take. Each route takes the same amount of time to do and they are all the same price.

We took route 3 (not our choice) but we didn’t want to wait for other people to show up to take the route we had picked.  Our driver was also waiting for us, so we didn’t want to make him wait for more than we had to.

Once again, you don’t tip and this time they make you fill out a questionnaire where they ask you if your rower asked you for a tip.

What do you see?

Each route will take you through caves and to hidden temples.  It all depends on how many of each you want to see. Route 3 will take you through 4 caves and to 3 temples.  One cave is 1km long and you will have to keep your head down in order to not bang your head.  If you are a little claustrophobic, this might be a little scary, but the experience doesn’t last that long.  There is no way in doing a U-turn inside the cave and it usually isn’t very lit. So, yes, it’s a bit like going on an adventure.

Other than that, you just relax and enjoy the uncommon scenery. 

Personally, I hope to be able to go back there someday and check out the other routes.

Tips

Don’t forget your camera!  For the best light and fewer crowds, you need to get there no later than 3 pm if you are traveling there late February.

Mua Caves (1 hour)

This is not a must-see if you plan to travel to Ninh Binh for just 1 day.  The highlight is the viewpoint that gives you a great overview of the landscape and on a clear day, you can see people enjoying their boat ride in Tam Coc. The caves in itself aren’t very impressive.

I was there at the end of February and slept at the Mua Caves Lodge.  Therefore, I went up early in the morning but there wasn’t much of a sunrise as it was overly clouded or was it pollution?  The best time to go is around 8 am before the crowds get there or at the end of the day (around 3 pm).  There are fewer people and the sky is clearer.

The entrance fee is 100 000 VND but it’s FREE to get in if you are staying at the Mua Caves Lodge (see where we stayed).

Along the path, there are lots of places to take pictures and it is a fun place for kids.

After the roughly 20-minute hike up, you can enjoy a beer for 20 000 VND at the bar at the base of the stairs.

A taxi from the Ninh Binh train station costs between 100 000VND and 150 000VND.

Bai Dinh Pagoda (2 hours minimum)

The Bai Dinh Pagoda is a cultural and Buddhist complex, the largest in Southeast Asia. There are tons of temples, pagodas and over 500 statues of Buddha to admire. One of the pagodas is 800 meters high and was built in 2003 with materials sourced directly from local villages in the Ninh Binh province.

The complex is absolutely beautiful, and we highly recommend visiting this place if you have the time during your travel to Ninh Binh.

Access

We took a private car from Mua Caves lodge which cost us 600 000VND roundtrip and we had to pay 40 000VND extra for parking.  I don’t know if there are other ways to get there on your own as it is a little far away from everything

The entrance is FREE but they don’t really tell you that when you get there.  As soon as you arrive you are told to take the electric car which one-way cost 30 000VND.  However, you can easily walk to and from the complex on your own.

If you want to save yourself some time and are fit, take the electric car to go there and walk through the complex back to the entrance.  Doing it that way, you will be mostly going up and there will be lots of steps.

If you are traveling with kids or older people, walk there and then take the electric car on your way back. There are some steps, but it will pretty much be downhill once you arrive on site.

Tam Coc (2 Hours)

Although we did enjoy our boat ride in Tam Coc, it wasn’t as spectacular as Trang An.

One noticeable and interesting fact is that the rowers use their feet to row instead of their hands.  Along the route, you will go through Tam Coc, see people working in rice paddies and catching in nets some type of seashells and goats hanging out on the cliffs.

I heard some rowers will stop rowing if you don’t give them a tip.  As we didn’t finish our boat ride because our driver picked us up on our way back before getting to the end, we didn’t have to deal with that.  Again, you are not supposed to tip.

The entrance fee to the park is 120 000VND per person and 60 000VND for children.  You have to pay extra for the boat which I don’t understand why it isn’t included in the price as there is no other way to visit aside than by boat.  The boat ride costs 150 000VND per boat and you can’t have more than 2 foreign visitors by boat. Bring a sweater or something else for padding as the seating can be hard on your butt.

Along the way, you’ll be stopped by a photographer who will want to take your picture.  It cost $1USD (according to them) or 100 000VND per picture.  However, they’ll try to sell you every picture they took of you even if you only wanted one.  Therefore, that can be a pain in the butt trying to make them understand you only wanted 1 unless you want all of them.

There is a possibility to follow part of the river by bicycle if you want to and not have to deal with the hassle of locals trying to get more of your money that you are not willing to share.

Thai Vi Temple

The Thai Vi temple is located just outside of the town of Tam Coc and is worth visiting if you have time to kill.  I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit it, but it makes for a nice stop if you are going on a bicycle ride through the countryside.

There is no entrance fee and if you’re lucky, you might be able to assist at a little concert interpreted by the resident monk on old instruments. You can live a 30 000VND tip to show your appreciation or as a contribution to visit the temple.

This temple boasts traditional architecture with sophisticated decorations and embodies the cultural, architectural and spiritual values of the Tran Dynasty.

The Thai Vi Temple has 5 unique features:

• It was established by the first king of the Tran Dynasty in the late 13^th century;
• The temple is regarded as the oldest one worshipping the Tran Dynasty;
• It is the only temple that worships all the Tran Dynasty Kings;
• At this temple, it is the only place throughout the country where an altar stands for worshipping exclusively the King and Buddhist King Tran Nhan Tong instead of just Buddha and saints;
• Finally, the temple is almost entirely made of monolithic blue stones with mystical value.

Bich Dong Pagoda (1 to 1 ½ hours)

The Bich Dong Pagoda was a great surprise and we loved the hidden valley and the temples in the caves.  The hike up to these hidden places can be difficult for older people especially if it’s humid, so make sure to bring water and leave grandma at the first temple.

If you can squeeze this in your 1-day itinerary to Ninh Binh, you should.

When facing the main temple, you will notice steps on either side of the cliffs. 

The stairs on the left-hand side will take you to other temples built inside some caves.  It’s not that long of a walk and not too hard.  You get a nice view from up there.

However, in order to access the steps on the right-hand side, you’ll need to go around the pond that is in front of the main entrance (before the bridge).  This path will lead you to a hidden valley and it’s beautiful. There is a cave you can explore, but at the time as was there, it was closed.

Access

The entrance to the Bich Dong Pagoda is free and it is best to get there when it opens, at the end of the day or a little after noon if it’s not too hot.  This is when there will be fewer tourists. 

However, the bridge in front of the main gate is very popular with Instagrammers which can be annoying when you are trying to pass or when you too would like to take a picture but only for a minute or 2, not for 1 hour.

In addition, there are also a lot of local street vendors that will harass you at the entrance.

HELPFUL TIPS – NINH BINH TRAVEL

After having visited Ninh Binh province, we learned a few things that could help make your travel experience there easier.

There aren’t many ATMS in the Ninh Binh province, so make sure to bring enough cash with you.  We did find one right outside the entrance to Trang An however, which actually came in very handy.

Lodging

We found that sleeping in Khe Ha might make more sense and be most convenient compared to other places.  The village of Khe Ha is conveniently located halfway from the Mua Caves and Trang An.  Therefore, if you are up for it, you can walk to either place or ride your bike to them.  I would suggest doing the Mua Caves first as they take less time, then grab a bite to eat and then go to Trang An.

It’s also smaller and quieter than the town of Tam Coc nearby where everyone seems to be staying at.

Tam Coc is about 20 minutes away from Khe Ha and Bai Dinh Pagoda is 30 minutes away.

Ninh Binh City

Unless you have no choice, no one hangs around in Ninh Binh.  That’s because the city in itself isn’t very interesting and it’s ‘far’ from the main attractions.  Making it your home base for a few days will just be disappointing.  That being said, if you absolutely have a couple of hours to kill in Ninh Binh before leaving by train to your next destination, here is what you ought to know.

You can leave your luggage at the convenience store inside the train station for. 20 000 VND.

If you have time to burn, need to sleep, shower and relax, you can get a room at Viet Nhat Hotel with a double bed and WIFI for 250 000 VND or around $21 CAD. It’s conveniently located right in front of the train station.  Honestly, this is worth the splurge and is a lot more comfortable than waiting around in the small and uneventful train station of Ninh Binh.  We stayed there as we had 6 hours to kill and it started to rain.  So, it worked out great for us.

What can you do in Ninh Binh to pass time?

There are 2 huge churches to see in Ninh Binh that aren’t too far away from the train station. We only saw them from afar, but they looked very impressive and churches aren’t something you come across often in Vietnam.

Just a few blocks away from the train station (towards the left) you will find carpenters at work making masterpieces.  Had it not rained while we were there, we would have gone to check them out.  I am not talking about kitchen cabinets here but impressive and massive pieces of furniture.

If you are hungry, you can enjoy a meal at The Admiral Benbow, just down the street from the train station.

When you travel to Ninh Binh in Vietnam, don’t forget your mosquito repellant and a hat!  If you are looking for a rural and peaceful Vietnam experience, Ninh Binh will not disappoint.