Anne-Charlotte PasseraTravel back through time in Strasbourg, at least for one day. It’s a picturesque town located in Alsace, an eastern region of France.
The region of Alsace and Strasbourg, for that matter, borders with Germany. While you explore Strasbourg, contemplate at the half-timbered houses from medieval times and walk on the cobbled streets, you’ll notice French renaissance buildings blending with German imperial style.
Strasbourg and the region of Alsace know all about mixing up cultures.
A Brief History
Just like Rome, Strasbourg was not built in one day!
Without going into too much detail, just know this: Strasbourg changed nationality four times in 75 years (1870-1945). Therefore, we can easily say that it has a rich and tormented history with remarkable architecture.
In 1988, the historical center of Strasbourg (Grande Ile) was entered into the illustrious list of World Heritage sites of UNESCO. This include Strasbourg’s cathedral and the area known as Petite France. According to Wikipedia, it was the first time such an honour was placed on an entire city.
IN 2017, the German neighbourhood: Neustadt, located outside the Grande Ile, also made the UNESCO list. In 1880, after the Prussian war, this area underwent severe transformations (more of that later).
18th century Strasbourg
During the war of 1792 with Prussia and Austria, the mayor of Strasbourg requested that Roget de l’Isle write a song for the army of the Rhine (un chant pour l’armée du Rhin).
This song will end up becoming the French Revolution song or like Junior used to call it, the football song; it’s called the Marseillaise and is now our national anthem.
The Marseillaise is a warrior song and often heard during football games when the French national team is playing as it is sung to encourage our ‘warriors’ on the field!
19th century Strasbourg
In 1870, another war breaks out with Prussia (again) and Strasbourg capitulates. This is the beginning of change.
The region of Alsace is attached to the German Empire and Strasbourg undergoes a vast plan of urbanization that showcases the German style.
Between 1871 and 1914, Strasbourg becomes prosperous and will see its population increase by 100,000.
20th century Strasbourg
All good things come to an end with yet another war.
It is 1914, WWI breaks out and by the end of it, the region of Alsace becomes French again.
However, when Hitler’s troops invade Poland on September 1st, 1939, the French governor orders the evacuation of 375,000 Alsatians. In 48 hours, nearly 200,000 people leave the city of Strasbourg.
Unfortunately, the French loose the war and an armistice is signed on June 22nd, 1940. The region of Alsace falls yet again under Germanic rule. Imagine how confusing that must have been for the population being used as yo-yos between the French and Germans!
Nazis
During that time, the Reich imposes a politic of Germanisation and Nazification. If you didn’t oblige, you were sent to the camp of Schirmek or worse, the one of Natzweiler.
In Schirmek, the detainees were processed until they were brainwashed enough to follow the imposed path.
The refugees who had fled were only allowed back if they were Alsatian. To be honest, why would you willingly go back?
Finally, Strasbourg was liberated by General Leclerc on November 23rd, 1944 and the French flag was once again flying over the cathedral.
Strasbourg nowadays
Due to its history, Strasbourg has become the symbol of unity of Europe and the reconciliation between France and Germany. This can be seen through the University of Strasbourg, currently the second-largest in France and the coexistence of Catholic and Protestant culture.
Also, you’ll notice the half-timbered houses where blue is for Catholics and red is for Protestants.
Strasbourg is now the capital of Europe with at its core, the European parliament.
How to get to Strasbourg
You can get to Strasbourg by plane, by train or by car. The bus exists and is probably the cheapest way, but I have never taken the long-distance bus in France.
By car
You can’t drive in the historical part of Strasbourg, so you’ll have to park your car somewhere outside of it.
The closest parking lot that I know of is the one located underground by the train station.
By train
The train line between Strasbourg and Basel was put into place between 1840-1844. Whereas, the one between Paris and Strasbourg was made available in 1852.
Strasbourg is only 1h30 away by train from Basel, Switzerland or 130km if you are coming in by car.
You can easily do a day trip from there or from Paris.
Paris is only 2h20 away by train from Strasbourg if you’re willing to grab the early bird fast train (TGV), allowing you to arrive around 9 a.m. in the Venice of the North (Strasbourg).
By plane
Strasbourg does have an airport but is fairly limited in terms of destinations despite being the capital of Europe.
You can get flights arriving from around 40 destinations such as Amsterdam, Lisbon, London, Madrid, Barcelona, Casablanca, Fès, Istanbul, Munich, and Tunis.
There is a TER shuttle that takes you back and forth from the airport to Strasbourg for 4,50 euros. The shuttle ride is 10 minutes long.
Otherwise, you can fly into Paris, Basel, Zurich, Franckfort (210km), or Baden Baden (58km) and then take the train.
Obviously, if you are only spending one day in Strasbourg, you most likely will not becoming by plane, unless you are heading somewhere else afterwards.
How to get around
Getting around Strasbourg is easy at it is completely walkable, even if you only have one day there. However, with strollers and wheelchairs, you’ll be in for a bumpy ride in the historical part of town. Replace the stroller with a baby wrap carrier.
The tram
The first tram of Strasbourg first appeared in 1878 and was electrified in 1894. However, it kind of became obsolete and was last used in 1960.
Luckily, in 1994, it made a come back just like in other cities such as San Francisco (although I doubt it ever went away there).
Nowadays, it is fully automated and is one of the largest network in France with 6 lines, making the entire city (almost) completely accessible.
You can buy a day pass (Billet trio) for 6,80 euros which includes up to 3 people. This is not bad if you plan to visit more ‘remote’ places, meaning other than the Grande Ile. Otherwise, a one-way ticket costs 1,80 euros.
Don’t forget to scan your ticket each time you hop on the tram at one of those red boxes. Yes, even if you are just switching tram lines.
Cycling
I want to ride my bicycle, I want to ride my bike (Queen).
Strasbourg is the French capital for bicycles with the most cycling paths. Its network is the most developed and well suited, making it the 1st cycle city with a population of over 200,000.
Riding a bike through Strasbourg can be fun, especially if you only have one day there and want to see as much as possible.
For tourists like you and me, you can rent a bike through Vélhop. There is a major docking station right outside the train station. If you are in Strasbourg for just one day, it will cost you 5 euros (up to 12 hours).
Places to visit in Strasbourg in one day
It will be hard to see everything in just one day in Strasbourg, but it is possible pending on what time you arrive and what time you are planning to leave.
The main attraction is of course the Grande Ile, but before we get into that, here is a place that is absolutely worth visiting, especially if you have kids.
Parc de l’Orangerie
At the beginning of the 19th, the municipality decided to build an orangery from the castle of Bouxwiller and French gardens between 1803-1809.
The building housing the oranges was named after the Empress Joséphine which she inaugurated.
Between 1832-1848 the North-West path leading from the building was designed as and English park.
In 1895, the park was expended with a waterfall and a lake. The trees are century old and some of them are actually of rare species.
Access
It is a bit far of a walk to get to if you are coming from the train station.
Instead, hop on the Tram A, switch at Homme de Fer, and then hop on Tram E and get off at the Droits de l’Homme. The one-way trip takes about 30 minutes.
On your way there, you’ll pass by the Neustadt, the German area of Strasbourg. If you want and have the time, stop there on your way back from the Parc de l’Orangerie.
Also, the park is located in the area where the European Parliament stands which you see right before getting to your last stop.
When you only have one day in Strasbourg, you might think it’s a bit too much to do. However, if you arrive early enough in Strasbourg, it is possible to add it to your one day itinerary if you start with this visit.
What to do in the Park
There is a little bit for everybody in the park. You can leisurely walk through the park or you can do the following:
Car ride. For the kids, there is a vintage car ride, dating from 1952. It is open on weekends and holidays from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. and during school holidays from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Playground. Perfect for kids to run around
Boating. Enjoy a boat ride if you are up to some rowing and get up close and personal with one of the waterfalls. It’s very romantic. It will not be uncommon to row amidst some swans.
Bowling. It was closed while we were there due to Covid-19 but in case of rain, this could be a good option.
Food. If you are hungry, want to eat in a gorgeous natural setting and money is of no object, check out Le Buerehiesel. This restaurant is located in an old Alsatian farmhouse that was built in 1607.
It was brought to the park, piece by piece inside the park for the International Industrial Expo of 1895, and hasn’t been moved since.
Zoo. The access is FREE. It showcases the storks, the symbol of Alsace. They used to be on the verge of extinction but thanks to the conservation program of this zoo, their numbers are steadily growing again.
They can be admired at the zoo all year long and you can even catch them taking a leisurely stroll through the park. If you look up, you can spot their nests on top of the trees or on top of the chimneys of the Orangerie.
Storks
The white storks are carnivores. That’s why they love the region of Alsace as it is abundant in what they love to snack on: frogs, lizards, and fish. Yummy!
They travel from Europe all the way to the North-West of Africa. We were able to spot some in Morocco when we went to Fès.
Storks weigh around 3kg, live for about 30 years and can hatch up to 5 white shiny eggs. The eggs take about 32 days to hatch.
They make a clapping sound to communicate.
They will be hard to miss, even if you only have one day in Strasbourg.
Grande Ile
The Grande Ile is where the heart of Strasbourg is along with its history. There you’ll be able to admire buildings dating back to the Medieval times all the way to the Renaissance and more.
Don’t forget to look up when you are roaming the cobbled stone streets of the Grande Ile. Pay attention to the streets names as they are both in French and Alsatian.
It is not uncommon to even spot storks chilling in their nest on top of a chimney.
Strasbourg is also well known for its outdoor Christmas Market which is held on the Grande Ile on Place Kléber and around it. It is one of the oldest markets of this kind in Europe, dating back to 1570.
The train station is located only 400m away from the Grande Ile which makes it easily accessible. To access it, you’ll have to cross one of the many bridges decorated with geraniums, an Alsatian tradition. I’m not sure how many bridges there are in Strasbourg but there are a lot.
Here is a look of an itinerary you could take, if you only have one day in Strasbourg and not a whole lot of time.
From the train station, head on straight center away from it until you get to the bridge. Cross it and then make a right towards the covered bridge which is not a covered bridge. (just follow the signs)
Vauban Dam
The ‘covered’ bridge has 3 massive towers, remnants of Strasbourg’s medieval past. They were used to guard the city.
Since the covered bridges defence system had outlived its usefulness, military engineer Jacques Tarade directed the building of a dam, based on a design drawn up by Vauban. You will notice it located on the right-hand side of the covered bridges.
From 1685-1700, the dam could be opened to flood the southern front to make it inaccessible to any attackers. Then, in 1784, 13 arches of the dam were raised to allow seasonal flood waters to flow out and for boats to sail through.
Nowadays, the dam is used by pedestrians to cross the river to the Museum of modern art for FREE. Pieces of the cathedral (gargoils) are stocked inside waiting to be brought back to life.
Also, the top of the dam is now a panoramic terrace, offering an outstanding view of the Petite France.
Petite France
From the covered bridges, make a left, walk along the canal, directly into the picturesque area of Strasbourg called Petite France.
As you head towards it, you’ll pass by a playground. Honestly, there are worse places to stop at to let loose. (sarcasm)
Then, make a left and cross the moving bridge. It turns to let pass one of those touristic boats. It’s really fun to look at, does take a little bit of your time but worth it. So be patient!
As you walk along the well preserved half timbered homes from medieval times or renaissance it will be hard not to miss the Maison des tanneurs.
Built in 1572, its a great example of a leather house with an open-air gallery that would allow for the pelts to dry. The leather men imposed the caracteristics to the houses of that area due to their line of work.
They were located along the canal, as water was a necessity into the transformation of hides into leather.
Also, by the Maison des Tanneurs is an écluse. One of quite a few all around the Grande Ile. They are always fun to look at, especially if you’ve never seen one.
La Petite France is full of charm, not artificial and completely authentic. It is the real deal. Despite being a major tourist attraction, it is not overwhelmed with tourist trap stores.
Where does the name come from?
It was given to that part of Strasbourg where French soldiers that suffered from syphilis caught during an Italian campaign would go to when the main hospital was full in Strasbourg.
The architecture
The half-timbered homes are built in a way so that they can easily be taken down and rebuilt somewhere else. The beams interlock with each other and each has a number written on them so as to remember where they went.
Also, thanks to this type of construction, the houses resist better to the earthquakes. That’s why so many of them have been able to stand the test of time. Wood was primarily used as it was abundant in the Alsace region compared to stone.
There are different motifs on the façade representing a cross or a man with his arm and legs open, symbolizing virility.
It’s not uncommon for the shutters to have a heart on them. The story goes that if there was a heart, it meant that the girl of the house was available to get married and when she had found her true love, the heart would be filled up.
The rooftops were built really high to allow for the snow to slide off them easily. Each with large attics covered with beavertail style tiles. Sometimes they were painted or polished.
Also, the balconies are dressed up with geraniums, a symbol of Alsace. They are the red lipstick to the Alsatian homes and help keep the mosquitoes away since the 18th century. They really make the architecture of the houses stand out.
Finally, in terms of colour, blue houses were meant that it was a Catholic home and red a Protestant one.
That is why Strasbourg was nicknamed the Venice of the North.
Anecdote
The majority of the homes in Strasbourg didn’t have a bathroom until the mid-20th century. So how did they wash themselves?
Bathhouses were built.
The first one in 1809. Then, as the houses started having their own bathrooms, these bathhouses were demolished. The last one to be demolished was in 1973.
At first, they were private baths for the rich and then public so that everyone could have access to them.
Nowadays, the people of Strasbourg, on a hot day, like to bathe in l’Ill, the canal that surrounds the Grande Ile.
Canal
Close to the Maison des Tanneurs, you can access a staircase that leads down to the shore of the canal. It’s beautiful and peaceful there and if you are lucky enough, you’ll spot some of the ‘wild life’ going about their business.
One of the bridges that we passed under was built by Gustave Eiffel (the engineer of the Eiffel Tower). Notice the circles underneath it? They were put there and integrated to the design of the bridge to absorb the weight.
The Saint-Thomas bridge is the oldest and best preserved cast iron bridge in France dating back to 1841.
Follow the canal until you come across the platform for the boat tours and walk up back the stairs.
You’ll arrive face to face with Palais Rohan. Rohan was close to the King of France and even had a thing for Marie-Antoinette! You can listen to my True Crime Podcast and learn all about it HERE.
Next and final stop, the cathedral. You can’t miss it as it’s located right behind the Palais Rohan.
Cathedral
Finish your one-day tour of Strasbourg by visiting its Cathedral.
With its 142m high spire, the cathedral and its pink sandstone lace dress dominate the entire plain of Alsace. Dating back to 1220, it is the oldest gothic style cathedral in Europe.
It took three different architects to build it and you can notice the different phases just by looking at the façade.
It only has one spire because the cathedral was built on swamps, so it balances things out.
There is an observatory deck where you can admire the view of the region, but you’ll have to pay.
The interior
It’s FREE to visit and here are a few things to know about what is inside the cathedral.
Inside there is an organ with two puppets underneath. As the story goes, during mass, once a year, the puppets would talk and say whatever they wanted. Anyone could go up behind them and shout what ever they wanted, even naughty things, how audacious!
If you look close to the pulpit, you’ll notice a sculpture of the priest’s dog as he wanted to keep him close by.
When my nephew and I visited the cathedral, we were wondering why that dog had been placed there, and now we know.
Remember the ‘Monuments Men’? Well they helped the Allies return the 13th and 14th century stained-glass panels that had been removed and stolen by the Germans during WWII.
Astrological Clock
Finally, head on back and discover the Astrological clock built during the 16th century. It is a masterpiece of Renaissance watchmaking and mathematics. The clock has a perpetual calendar, indicating the movements of the planets.
As the story goes, the builder of the clock had his eyes ripped out or burnt once he had finished the clock so that he couldn’t build the same clock anywhere else. Afterward, he went back, blind, to give a final touch to the clock. By removing just one piece in the clock, he managed to affect its mechanism, only letting it ring twice a day at 12:30 p.m and 1:30 p.m.
If you can, try to be inside the cathedral around that time as it is when the automatons come to life after an angel rings. While all the apostles pass before Christ as they greet him, the four ages of Life pass before death.
Before heading back home, look on the main square in front of the Cathedral. You will see Kammerzell House, built in 1427. It is one of the most ornate, well preserved and oldest house of Strasbourg.
Neustadt
The area of the Neustadt in Strasbourg is where you’ll find the majority of the imperial german style buildings built at the end of the 19th century.
This neighbourhood of Strasbourg has been part of UNESCO since 2017.
If you want to walk around and get a closer look, just get off the tram E at République or Broglie. You could do that on your way back from Parc de l’Orangerie.
Some of the more noticeable buildings are located around Place de la République
- The library, which is the second biggest one in France with a collection of over 3 million documents. It has sculpted bas relief figures of intellectuals such as Descartes that have been integrated to the façade;
- The national theater; and
- Palais du Rhin.
In the middle of the square, you’ll find a statue honoring the fallen soldiers during the many wars. It’s represented by a mother with her two sons, one looking towards France, the other one towards Germany.
Should you like to see more of this area, head down Avenue Victor Schoelcher towards the canal of l’Ill. You’ll pass by the old post office and arrive at a bridge. To the left, you’ll notice Saint-Paul’s Protestant church, straight ahead Strasbourg’s University and to the right in the far back Saint-Guillaume church, dating from the 15th century.
Strasbourg’s University
It became officially a University in 1621. You would think that it is pretty old but no it isn’t. The University of Paris has it beat at it dates back to 1200.
However, the University of Strasbourg is the only one in France to receive a medal for its role in the resistance during WWII. The students and teachers alike walked out of the University when the Nazis showed up in France and they established themselves in Clermont-Ferrand instead. At the same time, they created gangs of resistance costing many of them their lives since they often got arrested and then deported.
Where the French and German neighborhood meet
The square Broglie is where you can find Strasbourg’s Opera house and City Hall. On Fridays, there is a local outdoor market that is held there, which is perfect if you want to bring some goodies home. Also, at the Opera House, there is a little terrace where you can enjoy a drink.
This is where the French area stops, and the German area starts. To mark it, located North -West of Square Broglie is the Janus Fountain.
Janus was a Roman god with two faces. This fountain symbolizes the double identity of Strasbourg being French-German. Therefore, one side faces the historical part of Strasbourg which is French, and the other one faces Neustadt, the German part of the city.
The aqueduct represents the Roman origins of Strasbourg even if it never had an aqueduct.
Activities to do in Strasbourg
It might be tough to take part in activities if you only have one day in Strasbourg and if it’s your first time. However, as you might get tired of walking around, you might want to do something a little more fun or off the beaten path, here are some options for you.
Petit train touristique
The little train is a very touristy option. Remember when I said that the historical part of Strasbourg is not very convenient for strollers and wheelchairs? Well, this could be an option to consider if you want to be able to see the highlights of Strasbourg in a more accessible way.
The cost is 7 euros per person and the ride lasts 40 minutes. There are two paths you can take either Petite France (Place de la Cathédrale) or the Neustadt (Place du Chateau).
Find out more about HERE.
Bateau mouche
Another way of visiting Strasbourg is on the Canal de l’Ill. You can do just that with Batorama. This is a great way to learn more about the city and to see it from another perspective.
These boats function all year long with and without a top. They start in front of Palais Rohan, near the Cathedral of Strasbourg.
You need to book your ticket online HERE, due to Covid-19. The cost of a ticket is 13,50 euros and the guided boat ride lasts a little over 1 hour.
Bateau moteur
Rent an electrical boat and sail away for an hour or more with Marin d’Eau Douce. This is great if you want to visit on your own.
The dock is located right in front of the covered bridges, so it is fairly accessible to get to if you have strollers or wheelchairs.
For one hour, it cost 40 euros, but you can be up to 5 people in one. There are three paths you can take focusing on a different aspect each time such as nature or architecture.
Kayak on the canal
Yes, you read that right. Use Strasbourg Eaux Vives and kayak around the historical part of Strasbourg in a kayak or canoe with a guide. However, you need to be at least 8 people to be able to participate in that activity.
Invaders
During our last visit to Strasbourg, we saw an Invader and then a second one. It’s too bad that we only saw it at the end of the day or else we would have looked for more. If you’ve been following us, you’ll know that it has become our thing during our trips to spot some. We saw some in Rabat, New York City, and Paris.
Where to eat in Strasbourg
One of the specialties in Alsace is a Tarte Flambée or Flammekueche.
It looks like pizza but it isn’t because the crust is thinner. The Tarte Flambée is covered in cream, onions, and bacon. Truly, you have got to try one.
La Fignette
We had a Tarte Flambée at La Fignette restaurant, on a little side street, away from the hustle and bustle of Strasbourg. Mostly locals eat there, which makes this place even better.
The basic Tarte Flambée starts at 9,50 euros and up. At La Fignette, you will not be disappointed. The food and the service are wonderful.
During Covid19, we had to wear a mask in the restaurant to your seat. If you can’t scan the code bar for the menu, a huge one will be brought to your table. We went through the same process in Basel, Luzerne, and now in Montreal.
Glacier Franchi
Who doesn’t like gelatos? The Italian version of ice cream. Glacier Franchi is charming as hell and the ice cream is DELICIOSO. You can either enjoy it on the terrace or on the go.
On the steps of the entrance, you’ll get a crash course into the history of ice cream making:
- 3000 BC the Chinese merchant Li-Hang made the first ice cream.
- In 1280, Marco Polo brought back from his adventures the mastery of the freezing point (melting point).
- Princess Catherine of Medici in 1550 brought to the court recipes for ice cream.
- In 1934 Joseph Franchi, with the help of his children, started making Italian ice cream.
- Today the 3rd and 4th generations perpetuate the tradition.
It’s not too pricy. 1 flavour is 2 euros in a cone or cup. 2 flavours, 4 euros. 3 flavours, well you are just being too greedy, aren’t you?
A bib is available upon request.
This is a great way to finishing up your day of exploring with (and without) kids.
Happy Hour on a boat
What’s a nicer way to enjoy a drink than on a boat? Located close to the protestant church Saint-Guillaume, you’ll find the Rafiot. Take a break from exploring on this ‘péniche’ before heading back home or across town to the train station.
Where to stay in Strasbourg
In case you decide to spend more than one day in Strasbourg, you’ll need a place to sleep.
On the Grande Ile, lodging can be pricy and not super accessible if you are traveling with someone of old age or kids in strollers. Not all have them have elevators nor practical staircases.
We stayed at Hotel Arok, right outside of the train station. It was perfect!
The room was super comfortable and spacious.
In the lobby you can watch football games or play games. It has a fantastic breakfast spread and you can borrow or take books with you while you are there. Blondie Bear was so happy to get his hands on some Mangas.
Off the beaten sleep
Located about 2km from Strasbourg’s cathedral, sleep on the water with Péniche Le Rohan. That will for sure make your stay memorable. Also, it’s located close to a park, perfect if you have kids.
Where to go next?
Hopefully, you’ll decide to stay more than one day in Strasbourg so that you can explore its surroundings. There is plenty to spark your interests from nature walks, drinking your way through Alsace, visiting historical sites and fairy tale towns, and more. So where would you like to go next?
[…] Strasbourg, it’s about a 20-minute train ride which makes it easy to visit as part of a day or half-day […]
What a great & thorough blog on this town I’ll admit I had never even heard of! Your photos are gorgeous, and I’m so inspired to visit to see Petite France & the University.
Thank you. You should check out Colmar as well. It’s only a 20-minute train ride from Strasbourg and they have a place called Little Venice.
Although I visited Dijon and Colmar, I never made it to Strasbourg while we were there. I love the half-timbered buildings in that area…the region is so beautiful, and so different than other parts of France! We lived in Toulouse for a year and a half, and are now back in the U.S. I miss France a lot!
Yes, I miss it too! I discovered more of the Alsace region this past summer and really fell in love with it. The landscape, the architecture, the climate, the food, it’s so different. Loved our visit to Colmar as well. Such a dreamy little town. Alsace has so much history which really makes it fascinating when you visit.
Wow this is such an interesting city to learn about. I find the French-German connection to be very interesting. This city looks to have lots beautiful architecture.
Yes, it does indeed have beautiful and varied styles of architecture. You should like the town of Colmar as well, only 20 minutes by train from Strasbourg.
What an insightful post! I felt like I really learned a lot! I’m pretty engaged in domestic travel right now (US based) but I’ll be saving this for the future for sure!
Thank you! It’s definitely worth the trip. I was there for personal reasons but we made the most of it.
[…] One thing to know about this place is that in 1914, when WWI started, Alsace was part of Germany. You can read about the history in our article on Strasbourg. […]
[…] Alsace is a perfect example of a child with two parents not getting along with both parties wanting full custody. Over the course of 75 years, Alsace will change nationality four times! Sometimes it was French and sometimes German. I speak more about Alsace’s history in my article on Strasbourg. […]
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